From: phil brogan on
Hello,

I recently bought a refurbished ABIT VA-10 mobo, brand new case, Athlon 1.6
GHz CPU, 1GB DDR RAM. I press the pwer switch, the red light on the mobo
comes on, CPU fan comes on, system unit fan comes on, power LED comes on,
HDD LED comes on, but nothing on the screen and no beeps. After 15 seconds
or so, HDD LED goes out. Unit remains powered up, fans continue to run.

A series of beeps or a message on the screen, and I can troubleshoot from
there, but I'm flying blind now.

Any ideas on next steps?

Thanks for your time.

- Phil


From: Bird Janitor? on
phil brogan wrote:
|
| Hello,
|
| I recently bought a refurbished ABIT VA-10 mobo, brand new case, Athlon
| 1.6 GHz CPU, 1GB DDR RAM. I press the pwer switch, the red light on
| the mobo comes on, CPU fan comes on, system unit fan comes on, power
| LED comes on, HDD LED comes on, but nothing on the screen and no
| beeps. After 15 seconds or so, HDD LED goes out. Unit remains
| powered up, fans continue to run.
|
| A series of beeps or a message on the screen, and I can troubleshoot
| from there, but I'm flying blind now.
|
| Any ideas on next steps?
|
| Thanks for your time.
|
| - Phil
|
|

Hi Phil -

Tell us about your PSU. Who makes it? What is the rated maximum wattage?
What are the ratings on the +3.3v, +5v and +12v rails?

This information can usually be found on the label on the PSU.

Usually this problem comes about that your motherboard is not getting
adequate or clean enough power to execute a start. Most of Abit's more
recent motherboards have two LED's on the board .. a red LED to indicate
that the board has backup power supplied and, once started, a green LED to
indicate that the board has started and the POST sequence has begun.

In your case, the board hasn't started, so it hasn't begun the POST sequence
to give you any beep codes or error messages on the screen.

Because it is a refurbished board (and, actually, with any board) it would
also be a good idea to unplug the PSU from the wall and clear the CMOS with
the jumper on the board for a few moments. This way you can be certain that
there is nothing pre-set in there to cause the board to not start. Also, if
I recall, your board also has a second jumper to lock the BIOS .. you may
need to check your manual for the proper settings on this.

Also, ensure that you replace the CMOS clear jumper on the correct pins
before restoring power to the motherboard.

But .. as I started, I suspect your PSU isn't up to the task of starting
your board. Cheap, generic and "came with the case" PSU's are always
suspect.

Jef


From: phil brogan on
Hi Jef,

450 watts.

28A on +3.3v
40A on +5v
18A on +12v

I unplugged the PSU from the wall and cleared the CMOS with the CCMOS1
jumper on the board for a minute, then switched the CCMOS1 jumper back to
default setting, then plugged PSU into wall, re-booted, and same symptoms
resulted.

Any other suggestions? Thanks for your time.

- Phil


"Bird Janitor?" <birdjanitor_REMOVE_YOUR_SHORTS_(a)sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:eeM7g.74037$H71.36580(a)newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...
> phil brogan wrote:
> |
> | Hello,
> |
> | I recently bought a refurbished ABIT VA-10 mobo, brand new case, Athlon
> | 1.6 GHz CPU, 1GB DDR RAM. I press the pwer switch, the red light on
> | the mobo comes on, CPU fan comes on, system unit fan comes on, power
> | LED comes on, HDD LED comes on, but nothing on the screen and no
> | beeps. After 15 seconds or so, HDD LED goes out. Unit remains
> | powered up, fans continue to run.
> |
> | A series of beeps or a message on the screen, and I can troubleshoot
> | from there, but I'm flying blind now.
> |
> | Any ideas on next steps?
> |
> | Thanks for your time.
> |
> | - Phil
> |
> |
>
> Hi Phil -
>
> Tell us about your PSU. Who makes it? What is the rated maximum wattage?
> What are the ratings on the +3.3v, +5v and +12v rails?
>
> This information can usually be found on the label on the PSU.
>
> Usually this problem comes about that your motherboard is not getting
> adequate or clean enough power to execute a start. Most of Abit's more
> recent motherboards have two LED's on the board .. a red LED to indicate
> that the board has backup power supplied and, once started, a green LED to
> indicate that the board has started and the POST sequence has begun.
>
> In your case, the board hasn't started, so it hasn't begun the POST
> sequence
> to give you any beep codes or error messages on the screen.
>
> Because it is a refurbished board (and, actually, with any board) it would
> also be a good idea to unplug the PSU from the wall and clear the CMOS
> with
> the jumper on the board for a few moments. This way you can be certain
> that
> there is nothing pre-set in there to cause the board to not start. Also,
> if
> I recall, your board also has a second jumper to lock the BIOS .. you may
> need to check your manual for the proper settings on this.
>
> Also, ensure that you replace the CMOS clear jumper on the correct pins
> before restoring power to the motherboard.
>
> But .. as I started, I suspect your PSU isn't up to the task of starting
> your board. Cheap, generic and "came with the case" PSU's are always
> suspect.
>
> Jef
>
>


From: Dylan C on
phil brogan wrote:
> Hi Jef,
>
> 450 watts.
>
> 28A on +3.3v
> 40A on +5v
> 18A on +12v
>
> I unplugged the PSU from the wall and cleared the CMOS with the CCMOS1
> jumper on the board for a minute, then switched the CCMOS1 jumper back to
> default setting, then plugged PSU into wall, re-booted, and same symptoms
> resulted.
>
> Any other suggestions? Thanks for your time.
>
> - Phil
>
Try swappiing the PSU out with a different one. If that doesn't do the
trick, try the CPU, them memory, then video. Think "process of
elimination." If swapping out each of them 1 by 1 doesn't make it boot,
but all components work on another MB, then you have pinpointed a
problem with the board.

More often than not, identifying a hardware problem is a trial-and-error
method of verifying what IS working, rather than what isn't.

-Dylan C
From: phil brogan on
Hi Dylan,

Been there, done that, that's how I got to this point. Ancient history
(about 3 weeks ago): my old ASUS A7V, PSU, and/or 700 MHz Duron CPU took a
power surge and died.

PSU was definitely dead (no fans, no lights, no nothing), so I replaced the
Case/PSU. Got power, but ASUS A7V mobo green LED wouldn't come on. I
concluded that A7V had to be replaced.

So I replaced ASUS A7V mobo with ABIT VA-10.
I bought one Samsung 1GB PC2700 333MHz DDR RAM for ABIT VA-10. Still no
boot, maybe the CPU is dead.

I replaced 700 MHz Duron CPU with 1.6GHz Athlon CPU, and installed new CPU
cooling fan as well.

That's how I got to where I am now, that's my horror story to date :-(

I'm doing all this to salvage the Red Hat Linux system I have on my 2 hard
drives totalling 15 GB.

Thanks for your time, any other suggestions are welcome.

- Phil

P.S.
"What's the only difference between a used car salesman and a software
salesman?"

"The used car salesman KNOWS he's lying!"





"Dylan C" <nospam(a)nospam.com> wrote in message
news:125v9juten2427c(a)corp.supernews.com...
> phil brogan wrote:
>> Hi Jef,
>>
>> 450 watts.
>>
>> 28A on +3.3v
>> 40A on +5v
>> 18A on +12v
>>
>> I unplugged the PSU from the wall and cleared the CMOS with the CCMOS1
>> jumper on the board for a minute, then switched the CCMOS1 jumper back to
>> default setting, then plugged PSU into wall, re-booted, and same symptoms
>> resulted.
>>
>> Any other suggestions? Thanks for your time.
>>
>> - Phil
>>
> Try swappiing the PSU out with a different one. If that doesn't do the
> trick, try the CPU, them memory, then video. Think "process of
> elimination." If swapping out each of them 1 by 1 doesn't make it boot,
> but all components work on another MB, then you have pinpointed a problem
> with the board.
>
> More often than not, identifying a hardware problem is a trial-and-error
> method of verifying what IS working, rather than what isn't.
>
> -Dylan C


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