Disable sound card with Front Panel headphone jack
in [Hardware]
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From: Dennis on 6 Jan 2006 23:28 Here's the problem: I have a Creative Sound Blaster card (pretty old too, Creative AudioPCI (ES1370) SB PCI 64/128(WDM)) and I have a front panel that has a headphone jack, mic jack and 2 USB slots. I want to be able to disable the speakers that are plugged into the sound at the back when I insert headphones into the front panel headphone jack. Is there a way to do this? Dennis
From: Erick on 7 Jan 2006 00:19 Some boards have the capability, but most do not. The only other way that I know of is to use a loop-through cable set from the rear jacks to supply the output for the front, but that would be a pain in the rear. "Dennis" <dennis.man(a)gmail.com> wrote in message news:1136608092.111789.23870(a)f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... Here's the problem: I have a Creative Sound Blaster card (pretty old too, Creative AudioPCI (ES1370) SB PCI 64/128(WDM)) and I have a front panel that has a headphone jack, mic jack and 2 USB slots. I want to be able to disable the speakers that are plugged into the sound at the back when I insert headphones into the front panel headphone jack. Is there a way to do this? Dennis
From: kony on 7 Jan 2006 03:57 On 6 Jan 2006 20:28:12 -0800, "Dennis" <dennis.man(a)gmail.com> wrote: >Here's the problem: > >I have a Creative Sound Blaster card (pretty old too, Creative AudioPCI >(ES1370) SB PCI 64/128(WDM)) and I have a front panel that has a >headphone jack, mic jack and 2 USB slots. I want to be able to disable >the speakers that are plugged into the sound at the back when I insert >headphones into the front panel headphone jack. Is there a way to do >this? > >Dennis Your card does not have jacks to accomodate this. You have two options, both requiring a little hands-on adapter sourcing or making: 1) Do without the ability to mute the rear output when front jack is used and use a simple extension cable with 3.5mm minijack that plugs into the rear of the sound card, goes in through a case slot bracket above or below it, and terminates in a socket (of whatever type the front panel needs to fit it). 2) Do above, but reverse engineer the front jack enough to know whether it has switching contacts built into it. If it does, it's possible to wire it such that the rear is muted, so you would wire as previously described, from rear minijack to front socket, then from the front socket back again to a NEW jack for output to the speakers at the rear of the case. if the front jacks aren't a switching type, you would also need source switching jacks and possibly devise a new mounting method if the (circuit board) current mounting method for the installed jack is not sufficient to accomodate the replacement jack, and it probably isn't else the feature would be available already... so then you're left to devise how to do that mounting as well. With the switching jack previously described, the L & R channels are routed to two normally closed contact switches build into the new minijack, so they're closed and lead back to the new rear port until you insert the miniplug into the front jack, at which point the tip of the miniplug causes the minijack switches to open and cut out the line back to the rear. Of course, for this new rear jack you also need a place to mount it but that's rather easy, just drill a hole in a slot-bracket cover or even the case itself and use a minijack with a threaded (& nut) neck to mount it. If you're used to doing similar kinds of circuit board mounting, wiring, soldering work, it's not hard but a little tedious even if it doesn't take a long time, and if you don't have the parts it may cost quite a bit to ship them if you don't have a well-stocked Radio Shack or similar available locally (and even then, I dont' recall if they usually carry switching minijacks). There might be better ways to do this... Do you need "good" gaming 3D positional sound support (or would you only game, if you do, with 2.1 or fewer speakers)? If you don't need good gaming 3D audio effects support you have more options for a replacement sound card. It will be important to know what the case's front panel jacks are like as well, as some cards might accept that connector from the case without further modification- or maybe not, we dont' know what yours is like, do you know this? One random card with good output and known to have such a pin header for front panel is a a chaintech AV-710, though several cards do- i just can't recall which at the moment... If you took a look at the pictures of sound cards at newegg (the larger pics linked on each respective product page, not just the tiny thumbnail images), you may be able to tell which have the front panel header present- it's fairly unmistakable, a dual row of about 10 -14 pins.
From: Dennis on 8 Jan 2006 20:02 Well, thanx for the help. I was hoping there was a simpler way to do this (maybe some software option or something) but I guess that was just wishful thinking. The front jacks are just what came with the case and I remember them being hooked up the motherboard when I was installing the sound card. And no, it's not a gaming machine. It's so that if I wanted to watch a movie or something, I could just go with headphones instead of speakers. Dennis
From: kony on 9 Jan 2006 07:39 On 8 Jan 2006 17:02:57 -0800, "Dennis" <dennis.man(a)gmail.com> wrote: >Well, thanx for the help. I was hoping there was a simpler way to do >this (maybe some software option or something) but I guess that was >just wishful thinking. > >The front jacks are just what came with the case and I remember them >being hooked up the motherboard when I was installing the sound card. >And no, it's not a gaming machine. It's so that if I wanted to watch a >movie or something, I could just go with headphones instead of >speakers. > >Dennis Some speakers have a headphone jack built-in that mutes 'em, though it's not going to be on the front of the system case of course.
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