From: class_a on
kony wrote:

> I regularly put coated inkjet paper through a couple of
> laser printers I have, specifically it's semi-gloss photo
> paper as this type has reasonable toner adherance but most
> importantly for my needs, this type of paper delaminates
> when soaked in a detergent solution (I use it to make PCB
> etching patterns using the toner transfer method,

Wouldn't overhead projector transparencies that are designed to be
printed on with laser printers be easier for this purpose (less hassle
but probably more expensive than your current solution)? I've seen
these used before for PCB etching patterns. Something like
http://tinyurl.com/3l7o63
From: CBFalconer on
Arthur Entlich wrote:
>
> Although inkjet printers have developed more refined inks and heads
> which produce a more presentable result on uncoated paper, all "fine
> art" and photographic quality papers for inkjets are still indeed
> coated, or have chemistry incorporated within them for controlling dot
> gain, and proper ink distribution to get the dynamic range required.
>
> Yes, there are a lot of uncoated papers available for inkjet use, but
> they are almost all a compromise of quality over the coated papers.

Please do not top-post. Your answer belongs after (or intermixed
with) the quoted material to which you reply, after snipping all
irrelevant material. See the following links:

--
<http://www.catb.org/~esr/faqs/smart-questions.html>
<http://www.caliburn.nl/topposting.html>
<http://www.netmeister.org/news/learn2quote.html>
<http://cfaj.freeshell.org/google/> (taming google)
<http://members.fortunecity.com/nnqweb/> (newusers)



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

From: Tony on
kony <spam(a)spam.com> wrote:
>On Fri, 04 Apr 2008 15:46:03 -0500, Tony
><tonythebengaltiger(a)gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>John D <jon(a)nomail.com> wrote:
>>>I have a desktop laser printer which seems to get to much toner on the
>>>copy-drum. I don't know why this happens to me and nor does the
>>>engineer.
>>>
>>>Are any ill effects caused by using "inkjet paper" in a laser printer.
>>>
>>>ISTR inkjet paper has an extra coating on it. I wonder if inkjet paper
>>>does not work quite right with the toner technology in a laser
>>>printer/copier.
>>
>>Unless the paper wrapper says that it is suitable for Lasers or Copiers then
>>you should not use it. Nowadays a lot of inkjet paper is in fact coated and
>>the
>>coating will probably damage the fuser in a laser printer.
>
>Actually, the properties that make a coated paper desirable
>for inkjet use is the degree to which it absorbs ink, and
>the gloss. It doesn't have to have a low melting point to
>achieve this and most don't have a low melting point.
>
>I regularly put coated inkjet paper through a couple of
>laser printers I have, specifically it's semi-gloss photo
>paper as this type has reasonable toner adherance but most
>importantly for my needs, this type of paper delaminates
>when soaked in a detergent solution (I use it to make PCB
>etching patterns using the toner transfer method, in fact
>many many people do so with coated inkjet paper in laser
>printers without any problem, no damage to the fuser BUT
>that is no guarantee some other type of paper-like medium
>wouldn't cause problems).

If you have used coated paper in a laser printer without a problem then either
the paper is designed for Laser use or you got lucky. I have several customers
who have found out the hard way to check the packaging of their paper before
using it in a laser. In some cases they have got away with it for some time and
suddenly the paper wraps around the fuser roller and then melts = new fuser.
So my advice remains the same, check the paper packaging, if it does not
mention Laser or Copier then it should not be used in a laser printer unless
the owner is prepared to risk a costly surprise.
Tony
From: Andrew Smallshaw on
On 2008-04-05, class_a <class_a(a)comcast.net> wrote:
> kony wrote:
>
>> I regularly put coated inkjet paper through a couple of
>> laser printers I have, specifically it's semi-gloss photo
>> paper as this type has reasonable toner adherance but most
>> importantly for my needs, this type of paper delaminates
>> when soaked in a detergent solution (I use it to make PCB
>> etching patterns using the toner transfer method,
>
> Wouldn't overhead projector transparencies that are designed to be
> printed on with laser printers be easier for this purpose (less hassle
> but probably more expensive than your current solution)? I've seen
> these used before for PCB etching patterns. Something like
> http://tinyurl.com/3l7o63

That is a different method that uses the film as a light mask.
The board is pre-treated with a photosensitive coating and exposed
to UV light through the mask. After sufficient time has elapsed
the board is removed and processed in a developer solution which
removes the coating only on the areas that have has sufficient
exposure to UV light. This is in fact the usual way of doing it,
especially in commercial settings because it gives the most consistent
results, although as you say it is not the cheapest arrangement
possible.

Home users are less consistent in the process they use, primarily
because the UV exposure units are fairly expensive (mine was over
�100 and only does boards up to just over A5 in size). The method
Kony mentioned involves ironing the paper onto the board and peeling
it off. The toner at least in theory is transferred to the board
and forms the etch resist mask directly - no need for coated boards
or UV exposure.

I've tried it and myriad other home solutions with varying degrees
of success but gave up on them in favour of the UV solution. The
etch mask doesn't always transfer cleanly, sometimes the etchant
etches through the mask, and paper does vary dimensionally (with
humidity in particular, especially when you iron it) which can be
significant with super-fine-pitched devices. In short it's a great
experimental method but if you value your time and want consistent
results then I found it left much to be desired.

--
Andrew Smallshaw
andrews(a)sdf.lonestar.org
From: kony on
On Sat, 05 Apr 2008 11:50:20 GMT, Arthur Entlich
<e-printerhelp(a)mvps.org> wrote:

>The risks are hard to reduce unless you specifically mention the exact
>paper type you use

The risks are only hard to reduce because they're so low
already. You're acting as though most are a problem when
it's the opposite. Perhaps it should be left to the user to
determine what gamble they're willing to take with an
unknown variable, or test by exposing the paper to heat like
near a stove burner then checking for excessive softening.


>...and have reasonable results with. One sheet of the
>wrong paper can make for a very costly repair on the laser printer.


True, but that's not quite the same as a blanket statement
that isn't correct. People can and do use coated paper, so
perhaps it would be better for you to list specific ones
that don't work, as it is the minority that would be a
problem.



>
>
>Many inkjet papers, especially glossy ones, have one or more
>non-absorption layers, which may be a low melting point plastic.

Whether you mean to or not, by omission in your statement
you seem to be implying something that is incorrect. The
vast majority of inkjet papers do not have a low melting
point plastic layer. The vast majority can go through a
laser printer fine. The types that are problematic tend to
be specifically described as to their (type of) plastic
construction.





> As you
>say, others are safe, but only with specific knowledge is it safe to
>make a broad statement.

True, and being conservative with someone else's printer is
a good idea. However, once someone is aware of the
conservative stance and it then comes down to details, most
coated papers don't cause a problem. If you know of any (at
all) that use a low melting point plastic layer and aren't
clearly described as containing plastic, please list those.