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From: HankG on 30 Dec 2005 18:13 "C R Briggs" <carobri(a)despammed.com> wrote in message news:41j6s5F1et1a4U1(a)individual.net... > "HankG" <hank(a)invalid.com> wrote in message > news:7I6dnXm56PT-Sy7eRVn-rg(a)comcast.com... > It may be possible to replace the battery on your existing chip - in my own > case I was able to prise off the "plastic block" over the, which revealed > the battery soldered to two of the chip "legs" which had been bent over the > top of the chip. > > Good luck I would only replace it with a '1287/1187' if I could get one. Think I might try to pry off the block as you did, since the computer is ancient (probably late '70s, was made in China, and the documentation (if you want to call it that) is written in pigeon English. Could you be specific as to how you removed the block? That is, did you use something like an X-Acto (hobby) knife to cut around the perimeter, or just pry with a screw driver? (or whatever). thanks. HankG
From: kony on 30 Dec 2005 18:57 On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 18:13:17 -0500, "HankG" <hank(a)invalid.com> wrote: > >"C R Briggs" <carobri(a)despammed.com> wrote in message >news:41j6s5F1et1a4U1(a)individual.net... >> "HankG" <hank(a)invalid.com> wrote in message >> news:7I6dnXm56PT-Sy7eRVn-rg(a)comcast.com... > >> It may be possible to replace the battery on your existing chip - in my >own >> case I was able to prise off the "plastic block" over the, which revealed >> the battery soldered to two of the chip "legs" which had been bent over >the >> top of the chip. >> >> Good luck > >I would only replace it with a '1287/1187' if I could get one. Think I >might try to pry off the block as you did, since the computer is ancient >(probably late '70s, was made in China, and the documentation (if you want >to call it that) is written in pigeon English. > >Could you be specific as to how you removed the block? That is, did you use >something like an X-Acto (hobby) knife to cut around the perimeter, or just >pry with a screw driver? (or whatever). thanks. I can't guarantee ALL of them are made same way, but "some" have the top shell with a lip that fits around the base piece, you might find that if you take something like a pair of slip-joint pliers and apply compression against the ends (both shorter sides of the rectangular box) it will make the middle flex outward some and you can sort-of rotate the slip-joint pliers sideways flipping up one of the longer sides. Of course, I make no guarantees it wouldn't be destroyed, only that it's possible. Be careful about prying up on it, particularly not pushing away from the board as that could gouge it- when i find a need to push "something" away from a board I put down a piece of plastic over the area, cut out from any scrap I have lying around... a piece cut out of a margarine lid would be about the same.
From: C R Briggs on 31 Dec 2005 12:38 "HankG" <hank(a)invalid.com> wrote in message news:2NmdnSXazPaXIijeRVn-qg(a)comcast.com... > > "C R Briggs" <carobri(a)despammed.com> wrote in message > news:41j6s5F1et1a4U1(a)individual.net... >> "HankG" <hank(a)invalid.com> wrote in message >> news:7I6dnXm56PT-Sy7eRVn-rg(a)comcast.com... > >> It may be possible to replace the battery on your existing chip - in my > own >> case I was able to prise off the "plastic block" over the, which revealed >> the battery soldered to two of the chip "legs" which had been bent over > the >> top of the chip. >> >> Good luck > > I would only replace it with a '1287/1187' if I could get one. Think I > might try to pry off the block as you did, since the computer is ancient > (probably late '70s, was made in China, and the documentation (if you want > to call it that) is written in pigeon English. > > Could you be specific as to how you removed the block? That is, did you > use > something like an X-Acto (hobby) knife to cut around the perimeter, or > just > pry with a screw driver? (or whatever). thanks. > Hank, In my experience the situation is similar to that which Kony has already said. In my case there was a DIL socket on the motherboard and what is seen initially is just a "plastic box" closely fitted to a DIL chip. Remove the complete chip just as you would any other DIL socketed chip. Two of the chip legs were bent over the top of the chip and connected to a battery with the "plastic box" just fitted on top. If you find this to the case with your installation, then DO NOT try to move the bent-over legs as one or more will almost certainly break off !! Regards, Good Luck & a Happy New Year to all, -- C R Briggs btyguard-nospam(a)yahoo.co.uk
From: Ralph Mowery on 31 Dec 2005 22:05 "HankG" <hank(a)invalid.com> wrote in message news:2NmdnSXazPaXIijeRVn-qg(a)comcast.com... > > "C R Briggs" <carobri(a)despammed.com> wrote in message > news:41j6s5F1et1a4U1(a)individual.net... > > "HankG" <hank(a)invalid.com> wrote in message > > news:7I6dnXm56PT-Sy7eRVn-rg(a)comcast.com... > > > It may be possible to replace the battery on your existing chip - in my > own > > case I was able to prise off the "plastic block" over the, which revealed > > the battery soldered to two of the chip "legs" which had been bent over > the > > top of the chip. > > > > Good luck > > I would only replace it with a '1287/1187' if I could get one. Think I > might try to pry off the block as you did, since the computer is ancient > (probably late '70s, was made in China, and the documentation (if you want > to call it that) is written in pigeon English. > > Could you be specific as to how you removed the block? That is, did you use > something like an X-Acto (hobby) knife to cut around the perimeter, or just > pry with a screw driver? (or whatever). thanks. > Found this in an old file. I have not tried it myself. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ The dallas chips consist of 'regular' chip, with extra pins between (in case of 24-pin devices) pin 1 and pin 24, and pin 12 and 13, at the middle of the chip. The top pins connect to a crystal, the bottom ones connect to one or two lithium cells. These components are moulded in plastic compound on top of the regular IC enclosure. If the battary goes and you can't/won't find replacements, then you can carefully try to pry away the moulding plastic in the hole between pen 12 and 13. You will find two solder tabs with wires soldered to it. Remove the wires, connect two regular AA cells (minus to the pin near pin 12, plus to the pin near pin 13), and you should be good for many years to come.
From: kony on 31 Dec 2005 22:58
On Sun, 01 Jan 2006 03:05:33 GMT, "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146(a)earthlink.net> wrote: >The dallas chips consist of 'regular' chip, with extra pins between >(in case of 24-pin devices) pin 1 and pin 24, and pin 12 and 13, >at the middle of the chip. > >The top pins connect to a crystal, the bottom ones connect to one or >two lithium cells. These components are moulded in plastic compound >on top of the regular IC enclosure. > >If the battary goes and you can't/won't find replacements, then you can >carefully try to pry away the moulding plastic in the hole >between pen 12 and 13. You will find two solder tabs with wires >soldered to it. > >Remove the wires, connect two regular AA cells (minus to the pin >near pin 12, plus to the pin near pin 13), and you should be good >for many years to come. > > That's a handy tip, but why AA cells? Usually the shelf life of the cells is a greater factor than current and since he'll need a battery holder either way it might be possible to just use one smaller, small enough that it fits in the available space without unduely long dongled connector. For example if he wanted to use a std CR2032, http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=search&item=BH-60&type=store though it's essentially same thing one could pull off any old motherboard. |