SMT rework
in [Repair]
|
From: Jim Yanik on 3 Aug 2010 23:44 "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily(a)ntlworld.com> wrote in news:Kw26o.18759$MQ3.15154(a)hurricane: > > > "Herman" <ripe(a)bellsouth.net> wrote in message > news:i393ul$gdd$1(a)news.albasani.net... >> >> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily(a)ntlworld.com> wrote in message >> news:FBh5o.37277$gM.26872(a)hurricane... >>> >>> >>> "Herman" <ripe(a)bellsouth.net> wrote in message >>> news:i32fmn$iu8$1(a)news.albasani.net... >>>> I am looking to buy a hot air SMT rework station. Only for >>>> occasional use. I like the idea of the vacuum pencil and the hot >>>> tweezers. What would be the recommended tips for general use for >>>> ICs and resistors etc. I do not need to do the PLLC size chips. >>>> Price $300 max or so. >>>> >>> >>> I have recently purchased a hot air rework station. It has hot air >>> handpiece with fully controllable airflow and temperature. Digital >>> readout for temp. Also has conventional iron with stand, again fully >>> controllable temp and digital readout. Comes with 5 round hot air >>> nozzles. Square ones for QFPs etc purchased from other sources fit, >>> I understand from a friend who also has one. Also 5 tips for the >>> soldering iron, spare element for the hot air and spare element for >>> the soldering iron. I paid 55UKP for it, so work that out in USD - >>> about $80 maybe. Company I got it from is in China and called >>> dragondirectmall. Very efficient and helpful service. Once it had >>> been collected from them by DHL, arrived at my door less than 24 Hrs >>> later. On their eBay site, they have a video showing a station being >>> built, and you can see that for the money, it is incredible value. >>> >>> Go to eBay and put in "KADA 852D" then look for the one that says >>> "buy now for �55". They have USD prices as well, as far as I recall. >>> Very satisfied with mine, so far. >>> >>> Arfa >> >> I was looking at that one. What do you think about the vacuum pencil >> and the hot tweezers? Seems like a good idea for resistors and >> diodes. Do the tips supplied work for small ICs? I have never used >> one of these stations. >> > > I've never bothered with vacuum pencils and hot tweezers. I guess it > depends how much you are going to be doing with it. I work with > surface mount on a daily basis, but it's actually pretty reliable > stuff, in general. When I need to get a resistor off a board, I just > heat both ends alternately with a standard iron, and then 'flick' it > off the pads. If I have one that is in an awkward place to do that, I > use one of the shaped bits that I have for my Antex station. These are > just 'standard' tips in that they fit any Antex 25 watt iron, but have > a sort of 'forked' tip, the prongs being the right distance apart to > heat both ends simultaneously, of standard profile sm components. > There are also tips in the same range that have an I.C. spacing to the > forks, and are the length of an IC. Good for your standard sized 8 / > 14 / 24 etc pinned sm ICs. I have a full set of these specially shaped > tips that I use when needed with my Antex temp controlled station. Not > cheap, but a good investment. As for picking the devices up, I just > use needle tipped stainless steel tweezers. > > The smallest nozzle supplied for the hot air handpiece is a couple of > mm diameter. It easily allows removal of ICs as long as they are not > too big. The process involves going round and round the pin rows until > it's hot enough for the solder on all pins to stay molten long enough > to flick the IC off the board. Obviously, if it's a very big QFP > package, then that's not so easy to do, and a shaped nozzle to heat > all four sides at once, is more appropriate. > > That said, when I got my KADA hot air station, I spent a while getting > a 'feel' for it, and I removed all sizes of QFP ICs from and old > mother board, and just to prove that you could, I even removed two > BGAs that were probably 4cm square each. > > I guess it's horses for courses, but for general use, so far, I can > thoroughly recommend my KADA as being a good value for money tool, and > actually, of remarkable quality and functionality, for the price. > > Arfa > > I've used the Pace thermo-tweeze system,at Tektronix.It's nice,but the tips for the many types of ICs gets costly. do you use a hot plate [or other pre-heat] for pre-heat of the workpiece? -- Jim Yanik jyanik at localnet dot com
From: Arfa Daily on 4 Aug 2010 04:39 "Jim Yanik" <jyanik(a)abuse.gov> wrote in message news:Xns9DC9F1B71B4D7jyaniklocalnetcom(a)216.168.3.44... > "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily(a)ntlworld.com> wrote in > news:Kw26o.18759$MQ3.15154(a)hurricane: > >> >> >> "Herman" <ripe(a)bellsouth.net> wrote in message >> news:i393ul$gdd$1(a)news.albasani.net... >>> >>> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily(a)ntlworld.com> wrote in message >>> news:FBh5o.37277$gM.26872(a)hurricane... >>>> >>>> >>>> "Herman" <ripe(a)bellsouth.net> wrote in message >>>> news:i32fmn$iu8$1(a)news.albasani.net... >>>>> I am looking to buy a hot air SMT rework station. Only for >>>>> occasional use. I like the idea of the vacuum pencil and the hot >>>>> tweezers. What would be the recommended tips for general use for >>>>> ICs and resistors etc. I do not need to do the PLLC size chips. >>>>> Price $300 max or so. >>>>> >>>> >>>> I have recently purchased a hot air rework station. It has hot air >>>> handpiece with fully controllable airflow and temperature. Digital >>>> readout for temp. Also has conventional iron with stand, again fully >>>> controllable temp and digital readout. Comes with 5 round hot air >>>> nozzles. Square ones for QFPs etc purchased from other sources fit, >>>> I understand from a friend who also has one. Also 5 tips for the >>>> soldering iron, spare element for the hot air and spare element for >>>> the soldering iron. I paid 55UKP for it, so work that out in USD - >>>> about $80 maybe. Company I got it from is in China and called >>>> dragondirectmall. Very efficient and helpful service. Once it had >>>> been collected from them by DHL, arrived at my door less than 24 Hrs >>>> later. On their eBay site, they have a video showing a station being >>>> built, and you can see that for the money, it is incredible value. >>>> >>>> Go to eBay and put in "KADA 852D" then look for the one that says >>>> "buy now for �55". They have USD prices as well, as far as I recall. >>>> Very satisfied with mine, so far. >>>> >>>> Arfa >>> >>> I was looking at that one. What do you think about the vacuum pencil >>> and the hot tweezers? Seems like a good idea for resistors and >>> diodes. Do the tips supplied work for small ICs? I have never used >>> one of these stations. >>> >> >> I've never bothered with vacuum pencils and hot tweezers. I guess it >> depends how much you are going to be doing with it. I work with >> surface mount on a daily basis, but it's actually pretty reliable >> stuff, in general. When I need to get a resistor off a board, I just >> heat both ends alternately with a standard iron, and then 'flick' it >> off the pads. If I have one that is in an awkward place to do that, I >> use one of the shaped bits that I have for my Antex station. These are >> just 'standard' tips in that they fit any Antex 25 watt iron, but have >> a sort of 'forked' tip, the prongs being the right distance apart to >> heat both ends simultaneously, of standard profile sm components. >> There are also tips in the same range that have an I.C. spacing to the >> forks, and are the length of an IC. Good for your standard sized 8 / >> 14 / 24 etc pinned sm ICs. I have a full set of these specially shaped >> tips that I use when needed with my Antex temp controlled station. Not >> cheap, but a good investment. As for picking the devices up, I just >> use needle tipped stainless steel tweezers. >> >> The smallest nozzle supplied for the hot air handpiece is a couple of >> mm diameter. It easily allows removal of ICs as long as they are not >> too big. The process involves going round and round the pin rows until >> it's hot enough for the solder on all pins to stay molten long enough >> to flick the IC off the board. Obviously, if it's a very big QFP >> package, then that's not so easy to do, and a shaped nozzle to heat >> all four sides at once, is more appropriate. >> >> That said, when I got my KADA hot air station, I spent a while getting >> a 'feel' for it, and I removed all sizes of QFP ICs from and old >> mother board, and just to prove that you could, I even removed two >> BGAs that were probably 4cm square each. >> >> I guess it's horses for courses, but for general use, so far, I can >> thoroughly recommend my KADA as being a good value for money tool, and >> actually, of remarkable quality and functionality, for the price. >> >> Arfa >> >> > > I've used the Pace thermo-tweeze system,at Tektronix.It's nice,but the > tips > for the many types of ICs gets costly. > > do you use a hot plate [or other pre-heat] for pre-heat of the workpiece? > > > -- > Jim Yanik Interesting you should ask that Jim. I've just been working on some boards where the use of hot air was the only option, but I was finding that I had to get the areas of concern up to a very high temperature in order for the heat that was being put in, to not be leached away by the board substrate. So I employed a bit of lateral thinking, and knocked up a little jig to hold the boards flat and level about 3 inches or so above the base (a piece of MDF). I then fitted two 12v 50 watt halogen lamps - the sort fitted in ceiling downlighters, shaped like an Apollo rocket nose cone - pointing upwards, and under the areas of concern. I switch these on, and leave them for about 5 minutes. When I come back, the board is toasty warm, and I am then able to carry out the soldering work using less air and temperature. So far, this has been 100% successful on every one that I've done. Arfa
From: N_Cook on 4 Aug 2010 05:23 Arfa Daily <arfa.daily(a)ntlworld.com> wrote in message news:FG96o.40656$zT3.39612(a)hurricane... > > > "Jim Yanik" <jyanik(a)abuse.gov> wrote in message > news:Xns9DC9F1B71B4D7jyaniklocalnetcom(a)216.168.3.44... > > "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily(a)ntlworld.com> wrote in > > news:Kw26o.18759$MQ3.15154(a)hurricane: > > > >> > >> > >> "Herman" <ripe(a)bellsouth.net> wrote in message > >> news:i393ul$gdd$1(a)news.albasani.net... > >>> > >>> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily(a)ntlworld.com> wrote in message > >>> news:FBh5o.37277$gM.26872(a)hurricane... > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> "Herman" <ripe(a)bellsouth.net> wrote in message > >>>> news:i32fmn$iu8$1(a)news.albasani.net... > >>>>> I am looking to buy a hot air SMT rework station. Only for > >>>>> occasional use. I like the idea of the vacuum pencil and the hot > >>>>> tweezers. What would be the recommended tips for general use for > >>>>> ICs and resistors etc. I do not need to do the PLLC size chips. > >>>>> Price $300 max or so. > >>>>> > >>>> > >>>> I have recently purchased a hot air rework station. It has hot air > >>>> handpiece with fully controllable airflow and temperature. Digital > >>>> readout for temp. Also has conventional iron with stand, again fully > >>>> controllable temp and digital readout. Comes with 5 round hot air > >>>> nozzles. Square ones for QFPs etc purchased from other sources fit, > >>>> I understand from a friend who also has one. Also 5 tips for the > >>>> soldering iron, spare element for the hot air and spare element for > >>>> the soldering iron. I paid 55UKP for it, so work that out in USD - > >>>> about $80 maybe. Company I got it from is in China and called > >>>> dragondirectmall. Very efficient and helpful service. Once it had > >>>> been collected from them by DHL, arrived at my door less than 24 Hrs > >>>> later. On their eBay site, they have a video showing a station being > >>>> built, and you can see that for the money, it is incredible value. > >>>> > >>>> Go to eBay and put in "KADA 852D" then look for the one that says > >>>> "buy now for �55". They have USD prices as well, as far as I recall. > >>>> Very satisfied with mine, so far. > >>>> > >>>> Arfa > >>> > >>> I was looking at that one. What do you think about the vacuum pencil > >>> and the hot tweezers? Seems like a good idea for resistors and > >>> diodes. Do the tips supplied work for small ICs? I have never used > >>> one of these stations. > >>> > >> > >> I've never bothered with vacuum pencils and hot tweezers. I guess it > >> depends how much you are going to be doing with it. I work with > >> surface mount on a daily basis, but it's actually pretty reliable > >> stuff, in general. When I need to get a resistor off a board, I just > >> heat both ends alternately with a standard iron, and then 'flick' it > >> off the pads. If I have one that is in an awkward place to do that, I > >> use one of the shaped bits that I have for my Antex station. These are > >> just 'standard' tips in that they fit any Antex 25 watt iron, but have > >> a sort of 'forked' tip, the prongs being the right distance apart to > >> heat both ends simultaneously, of standard profile sm components. > >> There are also tips in the same range that have an I.C. spacing to the > >> forks, and are the length of an IC. Good for your standard sized 8 / > >> 14 / 24 etc pinned sm ICs. I have a full set of these specially shaped > >> tips that I use when needed with my Antex temp controlled station. Not > >> cheap, but a good investment. As for picking the devices up, I just > >> use needle tipped stainless steel tweezers. > >> > >> The smallest nozzle supplied for the hot air handpiece is a couple of > >> mm diameter. It easily allows removal of ICs as long as they are not > >> too big. The process involves going round and round the pin rows until > >> it's hot enough for the solder on all pins to stay molten long enough > >> to flick the IC off the board. Obviously, if it's a very big QFP > >> package, then that's not so easy to do, and a shaped nozzle to heat > >> all four sides at once, is more appropriate. > >> > >> That said, when I got my KADA hot air station, I spent a while getting > >> a 'feel' for it, and I removed all sizes of QFP ICs from and old > >> mother board, and just to prove that you could, I even removed two > >> BGAs that were probably 4cm square each. > >> > >> I guess it's horses for courses, but for general use, so far, I can > >> thoroughly recommend my KADA as being a good value for money tool, and > >> actually, of remarkable quality and functionality, for the price. > >> > >> Arfa > >> > >> > > > > I've used the Pace thermo-tweeze system,at Tektronix.It's nice,but the > > tips > > for the many types of ICs gets costly. > > > > do you use a hot plate [or other pre-heat] for pre-heat of the workpiece? > > > > > > -- > > Jim Yanik > > > Interesting you should ask that Jim. I've just been working on some boards > where the use of hot air was the only option, but I was finding that I had > to get the areas of concern up to a very high temperature in order for the > heat that was being put in, to not be leached away by the board substrate. > So I employed a bit of lateral thinking, and knocked up a little jig to hold > the boards flat and level about 3 inches or so above the base (a piece of > MDF). I then fitted two 12v 50 watt halogen lamps - the sort fitted in > ceiling downlighters, shaped like an Apollo rocket nose cone - pointing > upwards, and under the areas of concern. I switch these on, and leave them > for about 5 minutes. When I come back, the board is toasty warm, and I am > then able to carry out the soldering work using less air and temperature. So > far, this has been 100% successful on every one that I've done. > > Arfa > Why the intermediary MDF? I suppose it would be a useful surface to stick some thermochromic stickers
From: Jim Yanik on 4 Aug 2010 07:42 "N_Cook" <diverse(a)tcp.co.uk> wrote in news:i3bbhn$g50$1(a)news.eternal-september.org: > Arfa Daily <arfa.daily(a)ntlworld.com> wrote in message > news:FG96o.40656$zT3.39612(a)hurricane... >> >> >> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik(a)abuse.gov> wrote in message >> news:Xns9DC9F1B71B4D7jyaniklocalnetcom(a)216.168.3.44... >> > I've used the Pace thermo-tweeze system,at Tektronix.It's nice,but >> > the tips >> > for the many types of ICs gets costly. >> > >> > do you use a hot plate [or other pre-heat] for pre-heat of the > workpiece? >> > >> > >> > -- >> > Jim Yanik >> >> >> Interesting you should ask that Jim. I've just been working on some >> boards where the use of hot air was the only option, but I was >> finding that I had to get the areas of concern up to a very high >> temperature in order for the heat that was being put in, to not be >> leached away by the board substrate. So I employed a bit of lateral >> thinking, and knocked up a little jig to > hold >> the boards flat and level about 3 inches or so above the base (a >> piece of MDF). I then fitted two 12v 50 watt halogen lamps - the sort >> fitted in ceiling downlighters, shaped like an Apollo rocket nose >> cone - pointing upwards, and under the areas of concern. I switch >> these on, and leave them for about 5 minutes. When I come back, the >> board is toasty warm, and I am then able to carry out the soldering >> work using less air and temperature. > So >> far, this has been 100% successful on every one that I've done. >> >> Arfa >> > > Why the intermediary MDF? I suppose it would be a useful surface to > stick some thermochromic stickers > > > I believe he said the MDF was the base,the jig holds the boards horizontally over the base,on which the halogens are mounted. I wonder if the "jig" is a Panavise? -- Jim Yanik jyanik at localnet dot com
From: Arfa Daily on 4 Aug 2010 12:55 >> >> Why the intermediary MDF? I suppose it would be a useful surface to >> stick some thermochromic stickers >> >> >> > > I believe he said the MDF was the base,the jig holds the boards > horizontally over the base,on which the halogens are mounted. > > I wonder if the "jig" is a Panavise? > > -- > Jim Yanik Correct, Jim. The MDF is the 'base'. The boards have mounting holes along their edges, which take screws when they are assembled into their product. So I took a piece of MDF, cut a base, and two pieces about 9" long by 3" or so wide. I then screwed these to the base like a pair of 'walls', set the right distance apart so that their centres were exactly under the mounting holes. I then marked a couple of these holes on each side, drilled 3mm holes down into the 'walls', and inserted cut down pieces of laser slide rails from old CD decks. These have nice smooth chamfered ends on them as standard. This allowed me to just drop a board over the pins, which then served to locate it on the tops of the walls, and stop it sliding around. The whole thing was then modified to take the lamps under the board, by drilling two 17mm holes in the MDF base, and push-fitting circular ceramic lampholders into those holes. The fact that I used MDF for all this is neither here nor there really. I just happened to have a big enough piece laying around, and it's easy to work with. Because of the nature of its makeup, if you drill holes in it that are just under clearance sized, it will grip whatever you push into the hole really tightly, without it being much effort to actually push it in. For instance, the slide rods that I used as pins, which are actually about 3.1 mm, and the lampholders which are actually a tad over 17mm diameter. Arfa
First
|
Prev
|
Pages: 1 2 Prev: Repairing flexible pcb connector track? Result! Next: Videorecorder problem - see pics |