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From: Scott Dorsey on 5 May 2008 10:40
Nil <rednoise+news(a)REMOVETHIScomcast.net> wrote:
>On 04 May 2008, Chris Hornbeck <chrishornbeckremovethis(a)att.net> wrote
>in rec.audio.pro:
>
>> Rubber cement is almost never good for both surfaces. Elmers
>> white works in many old-fashioned speaker drivers with
>> paper cones, foam replacement surrounds, painted steel frames,
>> and little expected life expectancy. The usual case... But:
>
>I've continued to check around since I posted this question, and there
>seems to be no real consensus. A favorite is called something like
>"Flex 400" (not the real name, but I'm away from my notes). It doesn't
>seem to be available anywhere retail, just in bulk from the
>manufacturer. Some people seems to have had some success with plain ol'
>Elmer's, but other people say it's the right category of adhesive, but
>it's too stiff and brittle and there are other more flexible flavors.

Flex 400 is pretty good. It's a high grade contact cement.

>I find several references to a glue called Weldbond Universal Space Age
>Adhesive. It's supposedly similar to Elmer's White Glue and Wood Glue.
>My local Ace Hardware carries it, so if nobody here warns me away from
>it, I may pick up a bottle of the stuff this week.

That's also a high grade contact cement. Another good one, and the one
I tend to use, is the 3M weatherstripping adhesive from your local auto
parts store.

Any of these will be fine; it just has to stick and not break down under
heavy vibration.

>> My strongest recommendation is to get a new bottle of the
>> original, but if you've ruled that out, you're into the
>> brave new world of chemical experimentation.
>
>I emailed the small company I bought the repair kit from yesterday, but
>I haven't heard back from them yet. He might not even be in operation
>any more,

Parts Express should sell the same kit, and they will also sell the
adhesives seperately. But I see no reason not to use contact cement.

DO be aware that the two speakers will sound different if you replaced the
surrounds at different times, and it could take a while for both surrounds
to get to the same stiffness. It turns out that the stiffness of the
surround is NOT all that important in determining the driver Fs, certainly
not as important as common wisdom would have you think. But although the
spider has a lot more to do with it, the surround stiffness does affect the
driver response a little bit. Consequently it's better to do these things
in pairs if possible. I know sometimes with a flown array or something it's
not so convenient to get to the speakers....
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
From: GregS on 5 May 2008 12:34
In article <fvn68j$pj7$1(a)panix2.panix.com>, kludge(a)panix.com (Scott Dorsey) wrote:
>Nil <rednoise+news(a)REMOVETHIScomcast.net> wrote:
>>On 04 May 2008, Chris Hornbeck <chrishornbeckremovethis(a)att.net> wrote
>>in rec.audio.pro:
>>
>>> Rubber cement is almost never good for both surfaces. Elmers
>>> white works in many old-fashioned speaker drivers with
>>> paper cones, foam replacement surrounds, painted steel frames,
>>> and little expected life expectancy. The usual case... But:
>>
>>I've continued to check around since I posted this question, and there
>>seems to be no real consensus. A favorite is called something like
>>"Flex 400" (not the real name, but I'm away from my notes). It doesn't
>>seem to be available anywhere retail, just in bulk from the
>>manufacturer. Some people seems to have had some success with plain ol'
>>Elmer's, but other people say it's the right category of adhesive, but
>>it's too stiff and brittle and there are other more flexible flavors.
>
>Flex 400 is pretty good. It's a high grade contact cement.
>
>>I find several references to a glue called Weldbond Universal Space Age
>>Adhesive. It's supposedly similar to Elmer's White Glue and Wood Glue.
>>My local Ace Hardware carries it, so if nobody here warns me away from
>>it, I may pick up a bottle of the stuff this week.
>
>That's also a high grade contact cement. Another good one, and the one
>I tend to use, is the 3M weatherstripping adhesive from your local auto
>parts store.
>
>Any of these will be fine; it just has to stick and not break down under
>heavy vibration.
>
>>> My strongest recommendation is to get a new bottle of the
>>> original, but if you've ruled that out, you're into the
>>> brave new world of chemical experimentation.
>>
>>I emailed the small company I bought the repair kit from yesterday, but
>>I haven't heard back from them yet. He might not even be in operation
>>any more,
>
>Parts Express should sell the same kit, and they will also sell the
>adhesives seperately. But I see no reason not to use contact cement.
>
>DO be aware that the two speakers will sound different if you replaced the
>surrounds at different times, and it could take a while for both surrounds
>to get to the same stiffness. It turns out that the stiffness of the
>surround is NOT all that important in determining the driver Fs, certainly
>not as important as common wisdom would have you think. But although the
>spider has a lot more to do with it, the surround stiffness does affect the
>driver response a little bit. Consequently it's better to do these things
>in pairs if possible. I know sometimes with a flown array or something it's
>not so convenient to get to the speakers....
>--scott

I imagine parts Express has the right glue for the fix. Airflex 400 is the flexible type
of polymer and Elmers is another type of polymer.

greg

From: The Speaker Exchange on 5 May 2008 15:11

any kind of contact glue will work. you can find it at any hardware
store. if you have trouble finding it, let me know, we have 1 ounce
bottles.

Nil;802661 Wrote:
> I guess this isn't quite on-topic for this group, but I figure many
> people here have some experience with this...
>
> A few years ago I bought a repair kit to replace the deteriorating foam
>
> surrounds on my 10" JBL stereo speakers. At the time only one surround
>
> needed doing, so I only used one surround. Now the other speaker needs
>
> it, but I find the bottle of adhesive has dried up.
>
> What kind of glue would you recommend for this? Rubber cement? White
> (Elmers) glue? Contact cement? Other?




--
The Speaker Exchange
From: Nil on 5 May 2008 18:33
On 05 May 2008, The Speaker Exchange
<The.Speaker.Exchange.2653171(a)audiobanter.com> wrote in
rec.audio.pro:

> any kind of contact glue will work. you can find it at any
> hardware store. if you have trouble finding it, let me know, we
> have 1 ounce bottles.

I'm probably starting to obsess about this, but I'm still curious why
there's a difference in opinion on whether to use PVA glue or contact-
type cement. I see commercial kits sold with either.
From: Carey Carlan on 5 May 2008 19:03
Nil <rednoise+news(a)REMOVETHIScomcast.net> wrote in
news:Xns9A95BCD80AE23nilch1(a)216.196.97.136:

> On 05 May 2008, The Speaker Exchange
> <The.Speaker.Exchange.2653171(a)audiobanter.com> wrote in
> rec.audio.pro:
>
>> any kind of contact glue will work. you can find it at any
>> hardware store. if you have trouble finding it, let me know, we
>> have 1 ounce bottles.
>
> I'm probably starting to obsess about this, but I'm still curious why
> there's a difference in opinion on whether to use PVA glue or contact-
> type cement. I see commercial kits sold with either.

I've only replaced the surround on one set of speakers, but I know it would
have been practically impossible to position the surround correctly with a
contact cement. I absolutely needed the chance to adjust before it dried.
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