Prev: Seagate ST310014A master password?
Next: Anyone build their own PC driving "cockpit"?
From: RBM on 14 Jan 2006 22:15
If you don't care to rerun the cable or screw with rj-45 jacks, you can get
3M telephone wire sealed splicing crimps from Home Depot. No special tools
needed, just match up the colors, push into a crimp and squeeze with a
pliers. You don't even strip the insulation. They're silicone sealed and
last forever



"Dave Smith" <dog-rem-(a)cox.net> wrote in message
news:p28js11lp11h17k5o8hcsvjr7h6k8au026(a)4ax.com...
> My dog chewed up a section of cat.5 cable from my router to a
> computer. Really. Now that we've eaten the dog, I have to repair the
> damage. The cable is routed through the ceiling of the house and I
> REALLY don't want to do that again, so I'm hoping I can just get
> another length of cable and splice it to the existing one. Is the
> color coding of the wires uniform? If so, can I just solder the wires
> together (insulated of course) or is there some reason that approach
> won't work. I know there are kits for putting new connectors on
> cables, but I'd rather not invest in one for a one time repair.
>
> Thanks very much for any help.


From: Ken Maltby on 14 Jan 2006 23:30

"Dave Smith" <dog-rem-(a)cox.net> wrote in message
news:oldjs11q4hj3h2featdr499ceo7kmcqtda(a)4ax.com...
>
> Thanks very much Kony. I'll frown about this some more and I'm sure
> your info will help me get this done.
>
>

It actually does make sense, if you have ever done it.

I would pull a new cable though. Splicing is not as critical
as some seem to be making it sound, but why bother.

Luck;
Ken


From: XModem on 15 Jan 2006 00:05
On Sat, 14 Jan 2006 18:44:37 -0800, Dave Smith <dog-rem-(a)cox.net> wrote:

>
>Thanks very much Kony. I'll frown about this some more and I'm sure
>your info will help me get this done.

If you decide to pull a new cable, and it runs through some tight spots, a
squeeze bottle of Ideal Yellow 77 is worth its weight in gold.
In a pinch, I've seen dishwashing liquid used.

>On Sun, 15 Jan 2006 02:08:37 GMT, kony <spam(a)spam.com> wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 14 Jan 2006 17:20:08 -0800, Dave Smith
>><dog-rem-(a)cox.net> wrote:
>>
>>>My dog chewed up a section of cat.5 cable from my router to a
>>>computer. Really. Now that we've eaten the dog, I have to repair the
>>>damage. The cable is routed through the ceiling of the house and I
>>>REALLY don't want to do that again,
>>
>>You might be surprised how easy it can be to pull cable,
>>when you already have an old cable there. By splicing the
>>end of the old to the new, and pulling the old through, it
>>pulls the new through, so you then put a connector on each
>>end. Can't see the specifics of the situation though, if
>>you say it's not feasible I'll leave it at that.
>>
>>
>>
>>>so I'm hoping I can just get
>>>another length of cable and splice it to the existing one.
>>
>>... or where the break is, put a connector on it to
>>terminate it and a coupler or hub.
>>
>>>Is the
>>>color coding of the wires uniform?
>>
>>For your purposes, yes. The colored wire plus the white
>>with same-colored stripe are always twisted pairs. So, to
>>splice you would simply connect same-colors. However,
>>you're not supposed to leave these pairs untwisted for more
>>than about a 1/2", so taking your time and doing a good job
>>of getting all to the right length, having tight twists of
>>the bare wires soldered (not just touching bare) and
>>heatshrinked, then retwisted, is rather important. Leaving
>>too much untwisted may introduce noise... how much that
>>effects the run may depend on it's general condition besides
>>this repaired section.
>>
>>The question about the colors has another answer though,
>>that the colors to pin positions in the connector must match
>>on each end as well and there are two standards for that,
>>568A & 568B. See the following page and if you don't know
>>what you have, check continuity with a multimeter if you
>>can't tell from looking at the (other) end of the existing
>>wire.
>>http://www.bluemax.net/techtips/networking/Wiring_Tips/Wiring100TX/colorcodestandards.htm
>>
>>
>>
>>>If so, can I just solder the wires
>>>together (insulated of course) or is there some reason that approach
>>>won't work. I know there are kits for putting new connectors on
>>>cables, but I'd rather not invest in one for a one time repair.
>>>
>>>Thanks very much for any help.
>>
>>It can easily work, mainly you need to be careful to
>>maintain the same wire lengths and amount of overlap while
>>twisting them prior to soldering such that they all end up
>>(at least each two in a twisted pair) close to same length.
>>
>>Since they're twisted all along, getting the heatshrink or
>>other insulator on is the next hurdle, doing so and being
>>able to re-twist them together. If they're solid-core,
>>they'll be harder to manage and rather than trying to put
>>individual insulation sleeves on each solder joint, it may
>>be easier to push back a piece of shrink-tubing over the
>>pair of wires (so it'd cover both together), then on the
>>first solder joint of a twisted pair, put a piece of
>>heat-shrink over that single wire (pushed back out of the
>>way of soldering heat), then after soldering slide it into
>>place, THEN before soldering the other twisted pair wire
>>ends together, wrap them both around the
>>already-finished-and-heatshrunk wire before soldering.
>>Lastly slip the heatshrink tubing back down around the pair
>>to insulate from the remaining wires. I'm sure I didn't
>>write the above very well but the point is that by not
>>heatshrinking both individually, you can wrap the second of
>>each wire-pair around the first not having to slide down the
>>heatsink tubing after soldering.
From: John McGaw on 15 Jan 2006 10:38
Dave Smith wrote:
> My dog chewed up a section of cat.5 cable from my router to a
> computer. Really. Now that we've eaten the dog, I have to repair the
> damage. The cable is routed through the ceiling of the house and I
> REALLY don't want to do that again, so I'm hoping I can just get
> another length of cable and splice it to the existing one. Is the
> color coding of the wires uniform? If so, can I just solder the wires
> together (insulated of course) or is there some reason that approach
> won't work. I know there are kits for putting new connectors on
> cables, but I'd rather not invest in one for a one time repair.
>
> Thanks very much for any help.

And your lan speed is? And your link length is? If you are running
10baseT then go for it, almost any sort of neat splice will work even if
it is a moderately long run. If you are running 100baseT and your run is
short and you can do a _really_ neat splice maintaining a consistent
twist to the cable it will probably work. If you are running gigabit
forget about splicing and pull some new cat-6 cable immediately using
the old cable as a pull string.

Generally, pulling new cable to replace an existing run is far less
painful than pulling the original. Just keep the joint between the old
and new cable small and smooth and it should slide right through a
straight pull. Pull each segment (between the bends) by itself and don't
try pulling around sharp bends and everything should be fine.

--
John McGaw
[Knoxville, TN, USA]
http://johnmcgaw.com
From: Pelysma on 15 Jan 2006 22:13

"Dave Smith" <dog-rem-(a)cox.net> wrote in message
news:p28js11lp11h17k5o8hcsvjr7h6k8au026(a)4ax.com...
> My dog chewed up a section of cat.5 cable from my router to a
> computer. Really. Now that we've eaten the dog, I have to repair the
> damage. The cable is routed through the ceiling of the house and I
> REALLY don't want to do that again, so I'm hoping I can just get
> another length of cable and splice it to the existing one. Is the
> color coding of the wires uniform? If so, can I just solder the wires
> together (insulated of course) or is there some reason that approach
> won't work. I know there are kits for putting new connectors on
> cables, but I'd rather not invest in one for a one time repair.
>
> Thanks very much for any help.

I would never do this professionally, but in my house I did it.

I ran cable to my garage but don't have a crimping tool, so I cut a 6'
premade cable in half and spliced the halves to both ends of the long cable
run, using a woodburning pencil as a soldering gun. I opened and stripped
as little cable as I could get away with and wrapped each soldered joint
with black plastic electrical tape afterward, then the whole joint.

It's important, of course, not to get any cold joints. Heat the wire, not
the solder, and melt the solder by touching the heated twist of wire.

It works, 100baseT. I consider this an interim situation until I have an
excuse to spend the money for a crimping tool, which is a far better
solution.

--
P.


First  |  Prev  |  Next  |  Last
Pages: 1 2 3 4
Prev: Seagate ST310014A master password?
Next: Anyone build their own PC driving "cockpit"?