Veroboard cutting and veroboard-layouting
in [Design]
|
From: Rikard Bosnjakovic on 16 Mar 2005 03:30 Greetings As a newcomer to the wonderful world of electronics, I have recently setup a minor electronics lab in my home and started to build a few things. My tools and equipment exists of standard components (resistors, capacitors, ICs, etc), soldering iron, a bunch of veroboards and a multimeter. I do not, however, own an oscillator or any of those more expensive tools like PCB-etching equipment and such. Atleast not yet. As stated above, I'm using veroboards (stripboard and breadboard is a synonyme for the same thing, i think) for building my circuits. I also own a licence of Electronic Workbench (Multisim and Ultiboard are the ones I use most frequently). However, since I do not own any etching equipment Ultiboard is of less use for me since it can only do PCB-layout/routing. I have contacted the developers to hear if there was any possibility to make Ultiboard output to veroboards, but regretfully enough UB is designed for PCB only, was the answer. 1. Is there any layout/routing-application that is able to output layouts for veroboards? I have only found two cheap shareware-programs on Google. Even if they work, they were terribly tedious to use (limited amount of components etc). Is there no commercial or fully developed program anywhere? A great plus would be if the program could read the format that Multisim saves to, thus allowing me to save time by not designing the whole circuit all over. 2. When constructing on veroboards, I often have the need in cutting the boards to smaller shapes and I've found that it's pretty cumbersome since I haven't found any good tips of how to do it the right way. For new boards, I could take a small saw and shape it up without much problems. But for new circuits that I haven't done before, cutting the boards could lead to a too small board in the end, requiring me to start it all over again. Therefore I build new circuits on unmodified boards, so I get the whole space to begin with and cut it down later. But here's the problem. When I cut (not using a saw), the board usually tends to break up and it seems it doesn't want to be cut in straight line. I've tried a long and sharp knife, placing it between the lines of copper, and pushed hard. But the board still tends to break up in pieces near the end. Has anyone got a tip / link for me where I can read about how to cut boards without any breaks? Thanks in advance. -- Sincerely, | http://bos.hack.org/cv/ Rikard Bosnjakovic | Code chef - will cook for food ------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: martin griffith on 16 Mar 2005 04:18 On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 08:30:46 GMT, in sci.electronics.design Rikard Bosnjakovic <bos(a)hack.org> wrote: >Greetings > >As a newcomer to the wonderful world of electronics, I have recently >setup a minor electronics lab in my home and started to build a few >things. My tools and equipment exists of standard components (resistors, >capacitors, ICs, etc), soldering iron, a bunch of veroboards and a >multimeter. I do not, however, own an oscillator or any of those more >expensive tools like PCB-etching equipment and such. Atleast not yet. > >As stated above, I'm using veroboards (stripboard and breadboard is a >synonyme for the same thing, i think) for building my circuits. I also >own a licence of Electronic Workbench (Multisim and Ultiboard are the >ones I use most frequently). However, since I do not own any etching >equipment Ultiboard is of less use for me since it can only do >PCB-layout/routing. I have contacted the developers to hear if there was >any possibility to make Ultiboard output to veroboards, but regretfully >enough UB is designed for PCB only, was the answer. > >1. Is there any layout/routing-application that is able to output >layouts for veroboards? I have only found two cheap shareware-programs >on Google. Even if they work, they were terribly tedious to use (limited >amount of components etc). Is there no commercial or fully developed >program anywhere? A great plus would be if the program could read the >format that Multisim saves to, thus allowing me to save time by not >designing the whole circuit all over. > > >2. When constructing on veroboards, I often have the need in cutting the >boards to smaller shapes and I've found that it's pretty cumbersome >since I haven't found any good tips of how to do it the right way. For >new boards, I could take a small saw and shape it up without much >problems. But for new circuits that I haven't done before, cutting the >boards could lead to a too small board in the end, requiring me to start >it all over again. > >Therefore I build new circuits on unmodified boards, so I get the whole >space to begin with and cut it down later. But here's the problem. When >I cut (not using a saw), the board usually tends to break up and it >seems it doesn't want to be cut in straight line. I've tried a long and >sharp knife, placing it between the lines of copper, and pushed hard. >But the board still tends to break up in pieces near the end. > >Has anyone got a tip / link for me where I can read about how to cut >boards without any breaks? > > >Thanks in advance. Welcome to the wierd world of electronics I think you have simply stated the limitaions of veroboard/strip board very well indeed. I've a lot of it over the years, and found that it is good for prototyping, and for small simple projects, and that is about all. Trying to cut the board once you have put lots of components on is typically, for me, a disaster. Since you have Ultiboard (which I have never used). I would suggest that you output the gerber files and send them to Olimex or expressPCB, who are good and cheap. The time you save sending your design to a prototype PCB house is quite significant. You just need to plan ahead. I have quite a few little test PCB's in veroboard, quite often with just a 7805, microprocessor in a zif socket, a RS232 driver and 2 line LCD. Great for checking little programs out. But I wouldnt go much bigger than that these days. The last serious analog thing I did on veroboard was a little video multiburst generator. going up to 20MHz. It was unusable above 5MHz, just board capacitance problems. Veroboard was very usefull, in the 70's and 80's, but with the cheap modern PCB houses, its use is limited martin "An eye for an eye makes the whole world blind" Gandhi
From: Yukio YANO on 16 Mar 2005 05:32 Rikard Bosnjakovic wrote: > Greetings > > Has anyone got a tip / link for me where I can read about how to cut > boards without any breaks? > > > Thanks in advance. > Next new/used toy ! E-Bay for a used Oscilloscope ~ $25/50 +s/h Then breadboard a "555" timer for a signal generator, cost ~ $2.00 biggest expense ! $1.50 for a 9 Volt battery > Use a Jeweller's Saw ! Looks like a Coping Saw, only a little more refined Find under Jewellery Making or Lapidary Supplies "Michael's". "Hobby Lobby", "Walmart ? " ~$10.00 + blades I have'nt bought a new one in years so Price is only a guess. I've used a Dremel tool with 1" Abrasive cut-off wheels, but the Jeweller's is much more elegent, Yukio YANO
From: Alan Turner on 16 Mar 2005 08:29 Hi, On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 08:30:46 +0000, Rikard Bosnjakovic wrote: > Greetings > > As a newcomer to the wonderful world of electronics, I have recently > setup a minor electronics lab in my home and started to build a few > things. My tools and equipment exists of standard components (resistors, > capacitors, ICs, etc), soldering iron, a bunch of veroboards and a > multimeter. I do not, however, own an oscillator or any of those more > expensive tools like PCB-etching equipment and such. Atleast not yet. I don't think it's necessary to own PCB manufacturing gear. If veroboard is not suitable you can have PCBs made reasonably cheaply. Olimex [www.olimex.com] make PCBs very cheaply and seem to do a good job. Keep in mind that most home-made boards are single-sided or double sided without through-hole plating. This limits their usefulness quite significantly. > As stated above, I'm using veroboards (stripboard and breadboard is a > synonyme for the same thing, i think) for building my circuits. In my experience "stripboard" and "veroboard" mean the same thing. The term "breadboard" usually refers to a plastic board with an arrangment of holes into which components and wires can be plugged (no soldering). Breadboards are used for testing circuits before final construction. > I also > own a licence of Electronic Workbench (Multisim and Ultiboard are the > ones I use most frequently). However, since I do not own any etching > equipment Ultiboard is of less use for me since it can only do > PCB-layout/routing. I have contacted the developers to hear if there was > any possibility to make Ultiboard output to veroboards, but regretfully > enough UB is designed for PCB only, was the answer. I haven't used electronics workbench, so I won't comment on it. If you want to simulate circuits cheaply you might want to look at LTspice [www.linear.com/software]. > 1. Is there any layout/routing-application that is able to output > layouts for veroboards? I have only found two cheap shareware-programs > on Google. Even if they work, they were terribly tedious to use (limited > amount of components etc). Is there no commercial or fully developed > program anywhere? A great plus would be if the program could read the > format that Multisim saves to, thus allowing me to save time by not > designing the whole circuit all over. I find that the best way to do veroboard layout is by hand using a large section of veroboard, the components you intend to use, and of course your schematic. When plan a component layout you need to worry about grounding, mounting decoupling capacitors close to the components which need them, adequacy of power supply rails and many other issues. I really doubt that any CAD package will do a better job than a person. > 2. When constructing on veroboards, I often have the need in cutting the > boards to smaller shapes and I've found that it's pretty cumbersome > since I haven't found any good tips of how to do it the right way. For > new boards, I could take a small saw and shape it up without much > problems. But for new circuits that I haven't done before, cutting the > boards could lead to a too small board in the end, requiring me to start > it all over again. The best way of cutting veroboard (I assume you mean the stuff with a 0.1" hole matrix drilled in it) that I have found is to score it along one of the rows of holes with a sharp blade and then snap it. Sometimes it can be useful to initiate the break using sidecutters on one end of the score line. The break edge can be cleaned up with a file. It is reasonably safe to cut the board with components in place. This avoids having to guess the board size ahead of time. Regards, Alan -- Alan R. Turner | Live never to be ashamed of anything you do or say. To reply by email, remove Mr Blobby.
From: Ol' Duffer on 16 Mar 2005 09:02
In article <W8SZd.19761$d5.149287(a)newsb.telia.net>, bos(a)hack.org says... > As stated above, I'm using veroboards (stripboard and breadboard is a > synonyme for the same thing, i think) for building my circuits. I also > own a licence of Electronic Workbench (Multisim and Ultiboard are the > ones I use most frequently). However, since I do not own any etching > equipment Ultiboard is of less use for me since it can only do > PCB-layout/routing. I have contacted the developers to hear if there was > any possibility to make Ultiboard output to veroboards, but regretfully > enough UB is designed for PCB only, was the answer. I am not familiar with that package, but have used commercial routing programs to do veroboard and thought it was a piece of cake. At least compared to pencil, eraser, and graph paper. Just snap to a 0.100" grid and remember that the traces on the bottom only run one direction. No it won't tell you where to make cuts, but is that really so hard to figure out? > 2. When constructing on veroboards, I often have the need in cutting the > boards to smaller shapes and I've found that it's pretty cumbersome > since I haven't found any good tips of how to do it the right way. For > new boards, I could take a small saw and shape it up without much > problems. But for new circuits that I haven't done before, cutting the > boards could lead to a too small board in the end, requiring me to start > it all over again. A bandsaw with a fine-tooth blade is a beautiful thing, but a hacksaw can serve. With small boards, I sometimes find it easier to clamp the saw in a bench vise and drag the board across it. Or with a little practice, you can score the board and break it over a sharp table edge like you would a piece of glass. It may help to cut through the foil at the desired break line, as it is tougher than the board. The key is to create an obvious path of least resistance. Cut or score along the holes, as this is the weakest place, and any random breaks will tend to occur here anyway. If you need to trim down further to that 0.050" between holes, a belt sander or bench grinder works well. Or a fine-tooth file for inside corners. |