From: PatD on
First, I did search the group and did not find the specific info I
need. I was given an older Maytag 1/3 hp 1725 rpm washing machine
motor and need help with the wiring to retask it for other use.
The wiring block on the end of the motor is set up with six connectors,
4 ganged with 1 internal and 1 external wire, 2 with single wires. It
looks as follows, (E) indicates external wire connected to house
current (115v) / maybe a capacitor? the other color is internal
wiring:

1 Blue / Red (E) 2 Green (E)

3 Black 4 Yellow / White (E)

5 Red / Yellow (E) 6 Orange / Black (E)

2 is connected to 3 via the centrifugal switch, I disassembled it to
verify. Obviously the start winding. This shows a resistance of .4,
probably need to clean my meters connections. Other values follow.
1 - 4 2 ohms
1 - 6 2 ohms
2 - 3 .4 ohm
3 - 5 3.6 ohms
4 - 6 .4 ohm
Any assistance in wiring / testing this would be appreciated. TIA

From: hrhofmann on
It would help if you would give us any/all info on the nameplate. That
would help to determine if it is a capacitor start motor or not. H.
R.(Bob) Hofmann

From: PatD on
Thanks for responding.
The information found in two places on the motor is:

JT Maytag 1725rpm Thermally Protected 1/3hp 115v 60~ 6.4amp 40C
Amb PCB131A

5KH41ET22S 2-1664-8 E25382 LR22286 CodeR 236M

I did Google all the numbers with maytag in the search and came up with
nothing related.

From: hrhofmann on
I just checked the spare washing machine motor that I have from a
Maytag-related washing machine. It is an Emerson unit, and a
two-speed. I have the wiring info. If you e-mail me with your e-mail
address I will send you a jpeg file of a scan of the wiring diagram.

I would hook the motor up in the most likely manner after you get the
wiring drawing, and then clip lead it to the 120V power line through a
regular electric iron like your wife used to use to press creases into
clothing, The iron will have very low resistance for the first few
seconds and the motor will get almost full power, and if it is under no
load will start easily enough. If you are wrong, the iron will heat up
and the motor will not burn out for a short connection time. If you let
the iron cool off for a couple of minutes while you try a different
connection, you can repeat it until you guess right.

Also, if you have an appliance repair center available, you might be
able to take the motor with you and get there early before the guys go
out on their daily rounds, and see if any of them can help you. Most
guys are ok with this as long as they know you are just wanting to
reuse the motor, and not to use it for repairs that would hurt heir
livelihood.

I have kept my 50 year-old furnace blower going with two old washing
machine motors. Each of the washing machine motors has lasted much
longer than the original motor that came with the furnace. I have the
extra motor now in case the second relacement dies. It has been going
strong for 20+ years, I may be blowing on borrowed time, but won't
change it out until I hear strange noises.
H. R. (Bob) Hofmann hrhofmann(a)att.net

From: James Sweet on

>
> I have kept my 50 year-old furnace blower going with two old washing
> machine motors. Each of the washing machine motors has lasted much
> longer than the original motor that came with the furnace. I have the
> extra motor now in case the second relacement dies. It has been going
> strong for 20+ years, I may be blowing on borrowed time, but won't
> change it out until I hear strange noises.
> H. R. (Bob) Hofmann hrhofmann(a)att.net
>

That's pretty impressive lifespan. I have to wonder how much more you
spend on gas running a 50 year old furnace though, or is it electric?
Most furnaces even as old as the mid 70's were 70% efficient or less, a
modern 90+ unit can pay for itself in just a couple seasons with what
natural gas goes for now.