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From: Mike De Petris on 29 Jun 2010 05:36
On 8 May, 16:53, "BillW50" <Bill...(a)aol.kom> wrote:
> Innews:e0dbd045-a6cf-4988-b343-274d769c808c(a)b7g2000yqk.googlegroups.com,
> Mike De Petris typed on Sat, 8 May 2010 06:28:18 -0700 (PDT):
>
>
>
> > On May 8, 3:27 pm, Mike De Petris <mikedepet...(a)gmail.com> wrote:
> >> On May 8, 2:51 pm, "BillW50" <Bill...(a)aol.kom> wrote:
>
> >>> I always thought a good product to come out with for those clone
> >>> battery manufactures would be fake batteries that has an AC adapter
> >>> jack. And have a voltage regulator inside to knock the voltage down
> >>> to acceptable range. Thus this would be great for those who has a
> >>> damaged AC jack or those who has a problem that it won't run off of
> >>> AC but it does fine from battery.
>
> >> oh yes that would be terribly useful
>
> >> anyway I suspect some hardware failure in the power zone, I've got
> >> some
> >> snapshots:http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba%23&usg=AFQjCNH25LmnVC...
>
> >http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#
> > sorry
>
> Wow! You have it all torn apart. See those two fuselinks? One is labeled
> FUSE500 and the other is labeled FUSE501? They are probably okay, but I
> would ohm them anyway, as they are easy to check.
>
> Large electrolytic capacitors are the weakest component generally. And
> it looks like C520 is one of them. That is probably okay, but something
> else to check.
>
> And that first picture off to the far right. What is that? A reset
> button? And is that board below the main board? And what is that thing
> bottom right? That disc looking thing with a large black dot in the
> center? Is that a coil? Or is it really a disc shaped object?
>
> And right by that disc just to the left. There is a plug that looks
> unplugged. Where does that go to? And where does that large plug with
> two black wires and two green wires go to? I would guess to the fan. Is
> that so?

the laptop is still apart, had little time to experiment, the two
fuses are ok will have to test capacitors, in the while I took away
the cmos battery and soldered two wires to use a standard cr2032 but
nothing changes


my idea now, is that if I am not able to find the faulty component,
that may well be a custom one, I will try to cut the connections to
the battery poles and connect using a 2-way deviator, so that in one
position the lapton can work like now, charging the battery when
switched off, or running on battery only, or trun the deviator/switch
and give voltage directly to the cutted terminals, excluding the
battery, with an external power supply, the pc should still detect the
battery charge level from other contacts of battery in place

should this work?
From: BillW50 on 30 Jun 2010 17:47
Mike De Petris wrote on Tue, 29 Jun 2010 02:36:40 -0700 (PDT):
> On 8 May, 16:53, "BillW50" <Bill...(a)aol.kom> wrote:
>> Innews:e0dbd045-a6cf-4988-b343-274d769c808c(a)b7g2000yqk.googlegroups.com,
>> Mike De Petris typed on Sat, 8 May 2010 06:28:18 -0700 (PDT):
>>
>>
>>
>>> On May 8, 3:27 pm, Mike De Petris <mikedepet...(a)gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> On May 8, 2:51 pm, "BillW50" <Bill...(a)aol.kom> wrote:
>>>>> I always thought a good product to come out with for those clone
>>>>> battery manufactures would be fake batteries that has an AC adapter
>>>>> jack. And have a voltage regulator inside to knock the voltage down
>>>>> to acceptable range. Thus this would be great for those who has a
>>>>> damaged AC jack or those who has a problem that it won't run off of
>>>>> AC but it does fine from battery.
>>>> oh yes that would be terribly useful
>>>> anyway I suspect some hardware failure in the power zone, I've got
>>>> some
>>>> snapshots:http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba%23&usg=AFQjCNH25LmnVC...
>>> http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#
>>> sorry
>> Wow! You have it all torn apart. See those two fuselinks? One is labeled
>> FUSE500 and the other is labeled FUSE501? They are probably okay, but I
>> would ohm them anyway, as they are easy to check.
>>
>> Large electrolytic capacitors are the weakest component generally. And
>> it looks like C520 is one of them. That is probably okay, but something
>> else to check.
>>
>> And that first picture off to the far right. What is that? A reset
>> button? And is that board below the main board? And what is that thing
>> bottom right? That disc looking thing with a large black dot in the
>> center? Is that a coil? Or is it really a disc shaped object?
>>
>> And right by that disc just to the left. There is a plug that looks
>> unplugged. Where does that go to? And where does that large plug with
>> two black wires and two green wires go to? I would guess to the fan. Is
>> that so?
>
> the laptop is still apart, had little time to experiment, the two
> fuses are ok will have to test capacitors, in the while I took away
> the cmos battery and soldered two wires to use a standard cr2032 but
> nothing changes
>
>
> my idea now, is that if I am not able to find the faulty component,
> that may well be a custom one, I will try to cut the connections to
> the battery poles and connect using a 2-way deviator, so that in one
> position the lapton can work like now, charging the battery when
> switched off, or running on battery only, or trun the deviator/switch
> and give voltage directly to the cutted terminals, excluding the
> battery, with an external power supply, the pc should still detect the
> battery charge level from other contacts of battery in place
>
> should this work?

Well first I think that is a pretty good idea you have myself. Although
will it work? Well I think it has a good chance to work if that means
anything. But no guarantee.

One thing worries me though. That is the difference between the battery
voltage and the power supply voltage. Your battery is most likely a
lithium battery and when wired in series, would top out at 4.2v per
cell. But batteries are not normally rated in this matter, but like 3.6V
per cell in series. Or something around this figure.

And I would really like to know the difference using the 4.2v per cell
in series vs. what the power supply puts out. Let's say you battery says
10.8v. That would be 3 x 3.6v = 10.8. Now knowing that 3 cells in series
(others could be in parallel too and don't count in this formula). So
the highest the battery would be fully charged could be as high as 12.6v.

And I would be really leery feeding anything higher than this. Although
you could probably be okay 2v higher than this and it still might be
okay. So we are talking about 14.6v now. And maybe 15.6v might be okay
too, but that is really pushing it. As I think you would be risking
something burning out. And I bet the power supply puts out more than
this, doesn't it?

So I think your best bet would be to have two supplies. One lower to
match the battery voltage and to feed that to replace the battery
voltage. And the original one to charge the battery like it does now.
They also sell power supplies that you can select the voltage and that
might be a good idea. But never miss select the correct voltage. That is
the only danger with them besides setting the wrong polarity.

Remember too, never supply external power to the battery. If you
accidentally supplied 12.6v or less to a 10.8v battery is one thing. And
not a very good idea at all since the current is so high from the
supply. But anything higher is super dangerous. As the battery (unless a
safety circuit kicks in inside of the battery) will overcharge and burst
into flames.

And once it is bursting into flames, I believe water on this fire only
makes it worse. Although I am not sure. Some sort of metal container
should contain it well (and save your house from burning down). Although
the vapors are probably dangerous too.

Now do you want to rethink all of this?

--
Bill
2 Asus EEE PC 7014G ~ 2GB RAM ~ 16GB-SDHC
2 Asus EEE PC 7028G ~ 2GB RAM ~ 16GB-SDHC
Windows XP SP2/SP3 ~ Xandros Linux
From: Mike De Petris on 1 Jul 2010 03:31
On Jun 30, 11:47 pm, BillW50 <Bill...(a)aol.kom> wrote:
> Mike De Petris wrote on Tue, 29 Jun 2010 02:36:40 -0700 (PDT):
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On 8 May, 16:53, "BillW50" <Bill...(a)aol.kom> wrote:
> >> Innews:e0dbd045-a6cf-4988-b343-274d769c808c(a)b7g2000yqk.googlegroups.com,
> >> Mike De Petris typed on Sat, 8 May 2010 06:28:18 -0700 (PDT):
>
> >>> On May 8, 3:27 pm, Mike De Petris <mikedepet...(a)gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>> On May 8, 2:51 pm, "BillW50" <Bill...(a)aol.kom> wrote:
> >>>>> I always thought a good product to come out with for those clone
> >>>>> battery manufactures would be fake batteries that has an AC adapter
> >>>>> jack. And have a voltage regulator inside to knock the voltage down
> >>>>> to acceptable range. Thus this would be great for those who has a
> >>>>> damaged AC jack or those who has a problem that it won't run off of
> >>>>> AC but it does fine from battery.
> >>>> oh yes that would be terribly useful
> >>>> anyway I suspect some hardware failure in the power zone, I've got
> >>>> some
> >>>> snapshots:http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba%23&usg=AFQjCNH25LmnVC...
> >>>http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#
> >>> sorry
> >> Wow! You have it all torn apart. See those two fuselinks? One is labeled
> >> FUSE500 and the other is labeled FUSE501? They are probably okay, but I
> >> would ohm them anyway, as they are easy to check.
>
> >> Large electrolytic capacitors are the weakest component generally. And
> >> it looks like C520 is one of them. That is probably okay, but something
> >> else to check.
>
> >> And that first picture off to the far right. What is that? A reset
> >> button? And is that board below the main board? And what is that thing
> >> bottom right? That disc looking thing with a large black dot in the
> >> center? Is that a coil? Or is it really a disc shaped object?
>
> >> And right by that disc just to the left. There is a plug that looks
> >> unplugged. Where does that go to? And where does that large plug with
> >> two black wires and two green wires go to? I would guess to the fan. Is
> >> that so?
>
> > the laptop is still apart, had little time to experiment, the two
> > fuses are ok will have to test capacitors, in the while I took away
> > the cmos battery and soldered two wires to use a standard cr2032 but
> > nothing changes
>
> > my idea now, is that if I am not able to find the faulty component,
> > that may well be a custom one, I will try to cut the connections to
> > the battery poles and connect using a 2-way deviator, so that in one
> > position the lapton can work like now, charging the battery when
> > switched off, or running on battery only, or trun the deviator/switch
> > and give voltage directly to the cutted terminals, excluding the
> > battery, with an external power supply, the pc should still detect the
> > battery charge level from other contacts of battery in place
>
> > should this work?
>
> Well first I think that is a pretty good idea you have myself. Although
> will it work? Well I think it has a good chance to work if that means
> anything. But no guarantee.
>
> One thing worries me though. That is the difference between the battery
> voltage and the power supply voltage. Your battery is most likely a
> lithium battery and when wired in series, would top out at 4.2v per
> cell. But batteries are not normally rated in this matter, but like 3.6V
> per cell in series. Or something around this figure.
>
> And I would really like to know the difference using the 4.2v per cell
> in series vs. what the power supply puts out. Let's say you battery says
> 10.8v. That would be 3 x 3.6v = 10.8. Now knowing that 3 cells in series
> (others could be in parallel too and don't count in this formula). So
> the highest the battery would be fully charged could be as high as 12.6v.
>
> And I would be really leery feeding anything higher than this. Although
> you could probably be okay 2v higher than this and it still might be
> okay. So we are talking about 14.6v now. And maybe 15.6v might be okay
> too, but that is really pushing it. As I think you would be risking
> something burning out. And I bet the power supply puts out more than
> this, doesn't it?
>
> So I think your best bet would be to have two supplies. One lower to
> match the battery voltage and to feed that to replace the battery
> voltage. And the original one to charge the battery like it does now.
> They also sell power supplies that you can select the voltage and that
> might be a good idea. But never miss select the correct voltage. That is
> the only danger with them besides setting the wrong polarity.
>
> Remember too, never supply external power to the battery. If you
> accidentally supplied 12.6v or less to a 10.8v battery is one thing. And
> not a very good idea at all since the current is so high from the
> supply. But anything higher is super dangerous. As the battery (unless a
> safety circuit kicks in inside of the battery) will overcharge and burst
> into flames.
>
> And once it is bursting into flames, I believe water on this fire only
> makes it worse. Although I am not sure. Some sort of metal container
> should contain it well (and save your house from burning down). Although
> the vapors are probably dangerous too.
>
> Now do you want to rethink all of this?

somebody suggests me to have a look at Intel's papares to find any
possible patch or update of the microcode, so I put the motherboard
into the scanner:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23705027(a)N06/sets/72157624394316536/

On the CPU I can read:

LF80537 T5300
5648B999 SL9WE

1.73/2M/533
INTEL... copyright symbols and "06"

It would be good to try a new or even different CPU to check if it's
working...
From: BillW50 on 1 Jul 2010 10:51
Mike De Petris wrote on Thu, 1 Jul 2010 00:31:53 -0700 (PDT):
> On Jun 30, 11:47 pm, BillW50 <Bill...(a)aol.kom> wrote:
>> Mike De Petris wrote on Tue, 29 Jun 2010 02:36:40 -0700 (PDT):
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On 8 May, 16:53, "BillW50" <Bill...(a)aol.kom> wrote:
>>>> Innews:e0dbd045-a6cf-4988-b343-274d769c808c(a)b7g2000yqk.googlegroups.com,
>>>> Mike De Petris typed on Sat, 8 May 2010 06:28:18 -0700 (PDT):
>>>>> On May 8, 3:27 pm, Mike De Petris <mikedepet...(a)gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>> On May 8, 2:51 pm, "BillW50" <Bill...(a)aol.kom> wrote:
>>>>>>> I always thought a good product to come out with for those clone
>>>>>>> battery manufactures would be fake batteries that has an AC adapter
>>>>>>> jack. And have a voltage regulator inside to knock the voltage down
>>>>>>> to acceptable range. Thus this would be great for those who has a
>>>>>>> damaged AC jack or those who has a problem that it won't run off of
>>>>>>> AC but it does fine from battery.
>>>>>> oh yes that would be terribly useful
>>>>>> anyway I suspect some hardware failure in the power zone, I've got
>>>>>> some
>>>>>> snapshots:http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba%23&usg=AFQjCNH25LmnVC...
>>>>> http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#
>>>>> sorry
>>>> Wow! You have it all torn apart. See those two fuselinks? One is labeled
>>>> FUSE500 and the other is labeled FUSE501? They are probably okay, but I
>>>> would ohm them anyway, as they are easy to check.
>>>> Large electrolytic capacitors are the weakest component generally. And
>>>> it looks like C520 is one of them. That is probably okay, but something
>>>> else to check.
>>>> And that first picture off to the far right. What is that? A reset
>>>> button? And is that board below the main board? And what is that thing
>>>> bottom right? That disc looking thing with a large black dot in the
>>>> center? Is that a coil? Or is it really a disc shaped object?
>>>> And right by that disc just to the left. There is a plug that looks
>>>> unplugged. Where does that go to? And where does that large plug with
>>>> two black wires and two green wires go to? I would guess to the fan. Is
>>>> that so?
>>> the laptop is still apart, had little time to experiment, the two
>>> fuses are ok will have to test capacitors, in the while I took away
>>> the cmos battery and soldered two wires to use a standard cr2032 but
>>> nothing changes
>>> my idea now, is that if I am not able to find the faulty component,
>>> that may well be a custom one, I will try to cut the connections to
>>> the battery poles and connect using a 2-way deviator, so that in one
>>> position the lapton can work like now, charging the battery when
>>> switched off, or running on battery only, or trun the deviator/switch
>>> and give voltage directly to the cutted terminals, excluding the
>>> battery, with an external power supply, the pc should still detect the
>>> battery charge level from other contacts of battery in place
>>> should this work?
>> Well first I think that is a pretty good idea you have myself. Although
>> will it work? Well I think it has a good chance to work if that means
>> anything. But no guarantee.
>>
>> One thing worries me though. That is the difference between the battery
>> voltage and the power supply voltage. Your battery is most likely a
>> lithium battery and when wired in series, would top out at 4.2v per
>> cell. But batteries are not normally rated in this matter, but like 3.6V
>> per cell in series. Or something around this figure.
>>
>> And I would really like to know the difference using the 4.2v per cell
>> in series vs. what the power supply puts out. Let's say you battery says
>> 10.8v. That would be 3 x 3.6v = 10.8. Now knowing that 3 cells in series
>> (others could be in parallel too and don't count in this formula). So
>> the highest the battery would be fully charged could be as high as 12.6v.
>>
>> And I would be really leery feeding anything higher than this. Although
>> you could probably be okay 2v higher than this and it still might be
>> okay. So we are talking about 14.6v now. And maybe 15.6v might be okay
>> too, but that is really pushing it. As I think you would be risking
>> something burning out. And I bet the power supply puts out more than
>> this, doesn't it?
>>
>> So I think your best bet would be to have two supplies. One lower to
>> match the battery voltage and to feed that to replace the battery
>> voltage. And the original one to charge the battery like it does now.
>> They also sell power supplies that you can select the voltage and that
>> might be a good idea. But never miss select the correct voltage. That is
>> the only danger with them besides setting the wrong polarity.
>>
>> Remember too, never supply external power to the battery. If you
>> accidentally supplied 12.6v or less to a 10.8v battery is one thing. And
>> not a very good idea at all since the current is so high from the
>> supply. But anything higher is super dangerous. As the battery (unless a
>> safety circuit kicks in inside of the battery) will overcharge and burst
>> into flames.
>>
>> And once it is bursting into flames, I believe water on this fire only
>> makes it worse. Although I am not sure. Some sort of metal container
>> should contain it well (and save your house from burning down). Although
>> the vapors are probably dangerous too.
>>
>> Now do you want to rethink all of this?
>
> somebody suggests me to have a look at Intel's papares to find any
> possible patch or update of the microcode, so I put the motherboard
> into the scanner:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/23705027(a)N06/sets/72157624394316536/
>
> On the CPU I can read:
>
> LF80537 T5300
> 5648B999 SL9WE
>
> 1.73/2M/533
> INTEL... copyright symbols and "06"
>
> It would be good to try a new or even different CPU to check if it's
> working...

Well it doesn't sound like a bad CPU to me, but who knows? I see it is
in a ZIF socket and it is easy enough to replace. You know how to work
those? See that large flathead screw? Turn it counterclockwise until it
stops. Usually it only turns 90 to 180 degrees. Then the CPU should pull
out without any resistance. If there is resistance, you didn't turn it
far enough.

I didn't notice any thermal paste on top of the CPU nor the northbridge
chip. So the heatsink should have thermal pads on them. And don't use
any thermal paste with thermal pads. All you need is to keep everything
clean and without fingerprints or anything else where they meet.

I believe my Gateway M-465e uses that same CPU. Oh that's a 533MHz front
bus? Now I wonder if I got the right RAM in mine? As I thought it was
only a 400MHz front bus and I thought I dropped in 400MHz RAM. If I did,
oops!

Oh that is a Intel Core 2 Duo Mobile Processor too! Mine is only a
single core. Those Core 2's are not cheap, not even used on eBay. Well
if you buy one and you have the same problem. I guess you can just
resell it. ;-)

--
Bill
Asus EEE PC 702G4 ~ 2GB RAM ~ 16GB-SDHC
Xandros Linux (build 2007-10-19 13:03)
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