From: Nospam on
Hi All.

I posted here a week or so ago concerning my son's boot up problem.

He has an Asus Crosshair motherboard.

The thread has disappeared from my news reader and I have been
unsuccessful in finding it again.

I just waned to say thanks to all those who helped.

I managed to borrow a PSU and that seems to have fixed it so he is going
to buy a new PSU.

When he works out how much power he needs.
His graphics cards say 102W each so 206W plus memory and motherboard,
hard disc and processor which he doesn't have power ratings for.

so I reckon another 400W will do so I have told him to get at least a
600 or 700W PSU

So thanks to Paul and everyone else, I can't remember the names, sorry,
of all the contributors but thanks again. It was appreciated.

--
Nospam
From: Paul on
Nospam wrote:
> Hi All.
>
> I posted here a week or so ago concerning my son's boot up problem.
>
> He has an Asus Crosshair motherboard.
>
> The thread has disappeared from my news reader and I have been
> unsuccessful in finding it again.
>
> I just waned to say thanks to all those who helped.
>
> I managed to borrow a PSU and that seems to have fixed it so he is going
> to buy a new PSU.
>
> When he works out how much power he needs.
> His graphics cards say 102W each so 206W plus memory and motherboard,
> hard disc and processor which he doesn't have power ratings for.
>
> so I reckon another 400W will do so I have told him to get at least a
> 600 or 700W PSU
>
> So thanks to Paul and everyone else, I can't remember the names, sorry,
> of all the contributors but thanks again. It was appreciated.
>

You can use Google Groups, to check archived messages. If a poster
puts a "no archive" option in their header, that may prevent a message
from being archived, so this doesn't have to be a complete
representation of the thread. But it should contain much of what
you're looking for.

http://groups.google.ca/group/alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt/browse_frm/thread/8d94c90e1800762a/dc683e8f49cfa2aa

Add up the power consumption figures, add a bit of overcapacity,
and you're likely to get in the right ballpark on a new supply.
There are some higher efficiency power supplies now, denoted by
their "80%+" efficiency ratings. That helps slightly with waste heat
coming from the power supply components themselves.

Also note, that some North American supplies now, are getting "Active PFC",
for power factor correction. That helps the power company,
rather than you. Active PFC supplies, may not be compatible with
all UPS (uninterrupible power supplies). If your son has a UPS,
then the ones with "pure sine wave output" are the least likely to
have an issue. The Active PFC doesn't deal well with cheap
UPS that use square waves or modified square waves for output.
If you look at the Newegg reviews, for the supply model you
plan to buy, sometimes the reviewers there will report whether
they had UPS problems with the unit or not. (It's possible
the combinations of units that don't work, cause the power
supply to fail earlier than it otherwise would.)

This one has Active PFC, and yet I don't see any complaints from
users (after scanning through a few pages of reviews). I don't know
what the difference is, between ones with Active PFC that have
issues, and ones that don't.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005

You can also get that one in a 750W. The 750W one has four
PCI Express power connectors. You should check and see how
many power connectors the two video cards need in total.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006

I'm fortunate, that my last PSU purchase, has no provision for
PFC at all. And that suits my cheapy UPS fine :-) My computer
has a UPS, purely to solve the "one second outage" problems I
see here sometimes.

This page, and the page following it, show the differences between
no PFC, passive PFC, and active PFC. Active PFC keeps voltage
and current in phase, making the power supply draw current from
the power grid, just like a light bulb would (only real power,
no imaginary vector component). Supplies sold in Europe have had
PFC features for a few years, but I think regulators are catching
on here.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/psu-methodology_8.html

Paul
From: Nospam on
In message <i22ju5$5jp$1(a)news.eternal-september.org>, Paul
<nospam(a)needed.com> writes
>Nospam wrote:
>> Hi All.
>> I posted here a week or so ago concerning my son's boot up problem.
>> He has an Asus Crosshair motherboard.
>> The thread has disappeared from my news reader and I have been
>>unsuccessful in finding it again.
>> I just waned to say thanks to all those who helped.
>> I managed to borrow a PSU and that seems to have fixed it so he is
>>going to buy a new PSU.
>> When he works out how much power he needs.
>> His graphics cards say 102W each so 206W plus memory and motherboard,
>>hard disc and processor which he doesn't have power ratings for.
>> so I reckon another 400W will do so I have told him to get at least
>>a 600 or 700W PSU
>> So thanks to Paul and everyone else, I can't remember the names,
>>sorry, of all the contributors but thanks again. It was appreciated.
>>
>
>You can use Google Groups, to check archived messages. If a poster
>puts a "no archive" option in their header, that may prevent a message
>from being archived, so this doesn't have to be a complete
>representation of the thread. But it should contain much of what
>you're looking for.
>
>http://groups.google.ca/group/alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt/browse_frm/
>thread/8d94c90e1800762a/dc683e8f49cfa2aa
>
>Add up the power consumption figures, add a bit of overcapacity,
>and you're likely to get in the right ballpark on a new supply.
>There are some higher efficiency power supplies now, denoted by
>their "80%+" efficiency ratings. That helps slightly with waste heat
>coming from the power supply components themselves.
>
>Also note, that some North American supplies now, are getting "Active PFC",
>for power factor correction. That helps the power company,
>rather than you. Active PFC supplies, may not be compatible with
>all UPS (uninterrupible power supplies). If your son has a UPS,
>then the ones with "pure sine wave output" are the least likely to
>have an issue. The Active PFC doesn't deal well with cheap
>UPS that use square waves or modified square waves for output.
>If you look at the Newegg reviews, for the supply model you
>plan to buy, sometimes the reviewers there will report whether
>they had UPS problems with the unit or not. (It's possible
>the combinations of units that don't work, cause the power
>supply to fail earlier than it otherwise would.)
>
>This one has Active PFC, and yet I don't see any complaints from
>users (after scanning through a few pages of reviews). I don't know
>what the difference is, between ones with Active PFC that have
>issues, and ones that don't.
>
>http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005
>
>You can also get that one in a 750W. The 750W one has four
>PCI Express power connectors. You should check and see how
>many power connectors the two video cards need in total.
>
>http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006
>
>I'm fortunate, that my last PSU purchase, has no provision for
>PFC at all. And that suits my cheapy UPS fine :-) My computer
>has a UPS, purely to solve the "one second outage" problems I
>see here sometimes.
>
>This page, and the page following it, show the differences between
>no PFC, passive PFC, and active PFC. Active PFC keeps voltage
>and current in phase, making the power supply draw current from
>the power grid, just like a light bulb would (only real power,
>no imaginary vector component). Supplies sold in Europe have had
>PFC features for a few years, but I think regulators are catching
>on here.
>
>http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/psu-methodology_8.html
>
> Paul

Thanks for the pages I'm am off to read them.

He doesn't have an ups.

The problem with the wattage is there are no figures listed in his
documentation for the power need by the mother board, memory, CPU so I
just estimated for him.

I think he is going for a 750W or there abouts which should be enough I
guess.

Thanks for the help again.

Thanks for the google info too


--
Nospam