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From: john coltrane on 12 Apr 2010 08:52
I just bought my first new asus motherboard in years. I bought the
P7P55D-E. This board calls for an 8 pin and 24 pin connectors. Looking
around newegg I cannot find a power supply with this configuration. I
can find a 24 pin with an 8 pin configuration. The documentation
specifies that I need a power supply that "complies with ATX 12 V
specification 2.0 (or later version) and provides a minimum power of 350W."

Can someone recommend a power supply that meets that specification

thanks

john
From: peter on 12 Apr 2010 21:02
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153113

lots listed if you read the specs

peter

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"john coltrane" <tendengarci(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:4bc3176f$0$31267$607ed4bc(a)cv.net...
> I just bought my first new asus motherboard in years. I bought the
> P7P55D-E. This board calls for an 8 pin and 24 pin connectors. Looking
> around newegg I cannot find a power supply with this configuration. I can
> find a 24 pin with an 8 pin configuration. The documentation specifies
> that I need a power supply that "complies with ATX 12 V specification 2.0
> (or later version) and provides a minimum power of 350W."
>
> Can someone recommend a power supply that meets that specification
>
> thanks
>
> john

From: Paul on 12 Apr 2010 23:10
john coltrane wrote:
> I just bought my first new asus motherboard in years. I bought the
> P7P55D-E. This board calls for an 8 pin and 24 pin connectors. Looking
> around newegg I cannot find a power supply with this configuration. I
> can find a 24 pin with an 8 pin configuration. The documentation
> specifies that I need a power supply that "complies with ATX 12 V
> specification 2.0 (or later version) and provides a minimum power of 350W."
>
> Can someone recommend a power supply that meets that specification
>
> thanks
>
> john

You don't have to use an 8 pin power connector, when you find one on
a motherboard.

Currently, I have a regular, four pin processor power connector, plugged
into the eight pin connector on my motherboard. And my power supply even
has an eight pin connector. I don't feel it is necessary to run the
extra wires over to it, so I didn't bother.

The four pin (ATX12V) connector, has two yellow wires and two black wires.
Molex Mini-Fit Jr. connector pins are good for at least 6 amps on each pin.
As the connector gets smaller (such as an eight pin or a four pin), the current
rating is actually a little bit higher, as there is less heating from adjacent
pins. But for the purposes of conservative ratings estimates, I use 6 amps
to be safe. (The 24 pin connector has an official 6 amp limit, and I use that
number for the 4 and 8 pin as well, to be safe.)

The two yellow wires can carry 6 amps each. That is 12 amps total. Times the
12V rail voltage, gives 144W maximum load. The Vcore regulator on the motherboard
is about 90% efficient, so 144W of input power, becomes roughly 130W of
power a processor can use.

So the maximum processor loading that a four pin power connector can handle,
is 130W. If you think your usage of the motherboard, will result in more
than 130W consumed by the processor, then you'd definitely want an eight
pin connector in there.

To give an example, people used to buy cheap D 805 dual core processors,
and overclock them to 4GHz. Doing so, resulted in a power drain of 200-250W
or so from Vcore. A user would want a motherboard with an eight pin connector,
plus an eight pin supply, for such a usage.

Modern processors have more modest power requirements. But if you're trying
for an extreme overclock, it is possible you could be in eight pin territory.

When looking at pictures of supplies, be aware that the eight pin connector
splits into two pieces. It has a "hinge" feature, that allows detachment into
two pieces. Here, you see a picture of a "4+4", which is an eight pin connector
that can be split in half, so one half can be inserted in an older, 4 pin
only, motherboard.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#eps4plus4

You can see the 4+4 split in two pieces, in the lower left corner
of this picture.

http://images17.newegg.com/is/image/newegg/17-153-113-Z06?$S640W$

In terms of "things that split" on modern power supplies, they are:

1) Main connector - the 24 pin may split into 20 pin plus 4 pin. The 4 pin
section is not useful for any other purpose. It can be distinguished,
as it has four different wire colors (3.3V, 5V, 12V, GND). The extra
four pins are only helpful, for SLI or Crossfire video installations
(provides more 12V amps to the video slots).

2) ATX12V/EPS12V - if there is an 8 pin connector, it may split into 4+4.
One of the 4 pin sections, is suitable for a 4 pin only motherboard.
The other half, probably isn't useful.

3) PCI Express 8 pin - if there is a PCI Express 8 pin connector, it
may split into 6+2. The 6 pin part, could be used on a video card with
a 6 pin only connector on it. Some supplies have both 6 pin and 8 pin
connectors, so you may not even need to split an 8, to get a 6.

Reading the entire Playtool page on power supply connectors, will give more
sample pictures.

Generally, the moulded plastic connector housing, prevents the improper mating
of the wrong things. But the connector scheme may not be completely foolproof.
At the very least, when you split a connector, expect only one half of it to be
useful, and the other half just hangs there.

For the main power connections, the "latch" on the side of the connector,
helps with the alignment. So you can remove some of the potential rotations
of the connector, by aligning the latch clips. The latch should be fastened,
to prevent "thermal walkout" of the connector over time. If the connector
walks out, the pins make poor contact, and the connector will burn. I've had
one disk drive connector do that (burn).

You may end up looking at pictures, and manufacturer documentation, to make
sure the supply has the features you need. In a quick look on Newegg, I don't
see enough adherence to any standards, to make it possible to "pick the
correct one", based on the one line product description.

Your motherboard manual wasn't that helpful (page 57).

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1156/P7P55D-E/E5138_P7P55D-E_manual.zip

But this picture on Newegg, shows a four pin "cap", covering the excess pins
on the eight pin power connector (see left edge of picture). If you have a
four pin supply, it goes into the holes that remain open. When you crack open
your paper motherboard user manual, take a pencil and mark which part of the connector
had the cap on it, for future reference. That should have been documented in
the manual. If you do have an 8 pin supply, or a 4+4 pin supply, you can remove the
black plastic cap, to expose the entire 2x4 connector on the motherboard.

http://images17.newegg.com/is/image/newegg/13-131-620-Z03?$S640W$

You can sort the power supplies on Newegg, by customer rating, such that the
best rated supplies are at the top of the list. Then, search for the power
rating and price you're interested in. Trying to buy a 350W, may leave you
in a situation where you have no PCI Express power connectors, so expect to
go up the power scale a little bit, to get the PCI Express connectors you need.

It really helps, to have an exact list of all connectors provided on the
supply, so you may need to visit the manufacturer site, as the pictures
on Newegg aren't good enough.

*Everything* printed on the power supply label, in terms of numbers, is
important. Once you have a list of all the hardware going into the
computer (or potentially being installed in it after an upgrade),
then you'll have the information necessary to decide whether a 450W or
a 1200W supply is needed. The current rating of the individual rails
is important, to a well rounded supply. For example, for myself personally,
I won't buy a supply where the 3.3V or 5V ratings are less than 20A.
Other people may have their own personal policies, but that is mine.
I probably won't ever use the whole 20A, but I feel more comfortable
knowing it is available. Since the 3.3V & 5V has a "combined power limit",
you can't always draw the full current anyway. So even if I have my
3.3V @ 20A + 5V @ 20A supply in hand, the combined rail limit on the label,
will prevent me from drawing 166 watts from them.

Paul
From: john coltrane on 13 Apr 2010 10:06
peter wrote:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153113
>
> lots listed if you read the specs
>
> peter
>
thanks

john
From: john coltrane on 13 Apr 2010 10:08
Paul wrote:
> john coltrane wrote:
>> I just bought my first new asus motherboard in years. I bought the
>> P7P55D-E. This board calls for an 8 pin and 24 pin connectors. Looking
>> around newegg I cannot find a power supply with this configuration. I
>> can find a 24 pin with an 8 pin configuration. The documentation
>> specifies that I need a power supply that "complies with ATX 12 V
>> specification 2.0 (or later version) and provides a minimum power of
>> 350W."
>>
>> Can someone recommend a power supply that meets that specification
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> john
>
> You don't have to use an 8 pin power connector, when you find one on
> a motherboard.
>
> Currently, I have a regular, four pin processor power connector, plugged
> into the eight pin connector on my motherboard. And my power supply even
> has an eight pin connector. I don't feel it is necessary to run the
> extra wires over to it, so I didn't bother.
>
> The four pin (ATX12V) connector, has two yellow wires and two black wires.
> Molex Mini-Fit Jr. connector pins are good for at least 6 amps on each pin.
> As the connector gets smaller (such as an eight pin or a four pin), the
> current
> rating is actually a little bit higher, as there is less heating from
> adjacent
> pins. But for the purposes of conservative ratings estimates, I use 6 amps
> to be safe. (The 24 pin connector has an official 6 amp limit, and I use
> that
> number for the 4 and 8 pin as well, to be safe.)
>
> The two yellow wires can carry 6 amps each. That is 12 amps total. Times
> the
> 12V rail voltage, gives 144W maximum load. The Vcore regulator on the
> motherboard
> is about 90% efficient, so 144W of input power, becomes roughly 130W of
> power a processor can use.
>
> So the maximum processor loading that a four pin power connector can
> handle,
> is 130W. If you think your usage of the motherboard, will result in more
> than 130W consumed by the processor, then you'd definitely want an eight
> pin connector in there.
>
> To give an example, people used to buy cheap D 805 dual core processors,
> and overclock them to 4GHz. Doing so, resulted in a power drain of 200-250W
> or so from Vcore. A user would want a motherboard with an eight pin
> connector,
> plus an eight pin supply, for such a usage.
>
> Modern processors have more modest power requirements. But if you're trying
> for an extreme overclock, it is possible you could be in eight pin
> territory.
>
> When looking at pictures of supplies, be aware that the eight pin connector
> splits into two pieces. It has a "hinge" feature, that allows detachment
> into
> two pieces. Here, you see a picture of a "4+4", which is an eight pin
> connector
> that can be split in half, so one half can be inserted in an older, 4 pin
> only, motherboard.
>
> http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#eps4plus4
>
> You can see the 4+4 split in two pieces, in the lower left corner
> of this picture.
>
> http://images17.newegg.com/is/image/newegg/17-153-113-Z06?$S640W$
>
> In terms of "things that split" on modern power supplies, they are:
>
> 1) Main connector - the 24 pin may split into 20 pin plus 4 pin. The 4 pin
> section is not useful for any other purpose. It can be distinguished,
> as it has four different wire colors (3.3V, 5V, 12V, GND). The extra
> four pins are only helpful, for SLI or Crossfire video installations
> (provides more 12V amps to the video slots).
>
> 2) ATX12V/EPS12V - if there is an 8 pin connector, it may split into 4+4.
> One of the 4 pin sections, is suitable for a 4 pin only motherboard.
> The other half, probably isn't useful.
>
> 3) PCI Express 8 pin - if there is a PCI Express 8 pin connector, it
> may split into 6+2. The 6 pin part, could be used on a video card with
> a 6 pin only connector on it. Some supplies have both 6 pin and 8 pin
> connectors, so you may not even need to split an 8, to get a 6.
>
> Reading the entire Playtool page on power supply connectors, will give more
> sample pictures.
>
> Generally, the moulded plastic connector housing, prevents the improper
> mating
> of the wrong things. But the connector scheme may not be completely
> foolproof.
> At the very least, when you split a connector, expect only one half of
> it to be
> useful, and the other half just hangs there.
>
> For the main power connections, the "latch" on the side of the connector,
> helps with the alignment. So you can remove some of the potential rotations
> of the connector, by aligning the latch clips. The latch should be
> fastened,
> to prevent "thermal walkout" of the connector over time. If the connector
> walks out, the pins make poor contact, and the connector will burn. I've
> had
> one disk drive connector do that (burn).
>
> You may end up looking at pictures, and manufacturer documentation, to make
> sure the supply has the features you need. In a quick look on Newegg, I
> don't
> see enough adherence to any standards, to make it possible to "pick the
> correct one", based on the one line product description.
>
> Your motherboard manual wasn't that helpful (page 57).
>
> http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1156/P7P55D-E/E5138_P7P55D-E_manual.zip
>
>
> But this picture on Newegg, shows a four pin "cap", covering the excess
> pins
> on the eight pin power connector (see left edge of picture). If you have a
> four pin supply, it goes into the holes that remain open. When you crack
> open
> your paper motherboard user manual, take a pencil and mark which part of
> the connector
> had the cap on it, for future reference. That should have been
> documented in
> the manual. If you do have an 8 pin supply, or a 4+4 pin supply, you can
> remove the
> black plastic cap, to expose the entire 2x4 connector on the motherboard.
>
> http://images17.newegg.com/is/image/newegg/13-131-620-Z03?$S640W$
>
> You can sort the power supplies on Newegg, by customer rating, such that
> the
> best rated supplies are at the top of the list. Then, search for the power
> rating and price you're interested in. Trying to buy a 350W, may leave you
> in a situation where you have no PCI Express power connectors, so expect to
> go up the power scale a little bit, to get the PCI Express connectors
> you need.
>
> It really helps, to have an exact list of all connectors provided on the
> supply, so you may need to visit the manufacturer site, as the pictures
> on Newegg aren't good enough.
>
> *Everything* printed on the power supply label, in terms of numbers, is
> important. Once you have a list of all the hardware going into the
> computer (or potentially being installed in it after an upgrade),
> then you'll have the information necessary to decide whether a 450W or
> a 1200W supply is needed. The current rating of the individual rails
> is important, to a well rounded supply. For example, for myself personally,
> I won't buy a supply where the 3.3V or 5V ratings are less than 20A.
> Other people may have their own personal policies, but that is mine.
> I probably won't ever use the whole 20A, but I feel more comfortable
> knowing it is available. Since the 3.3V & 5V has a "combined power limit",
> you can't always draw the full current anyway. So even if I have my
> 3.3V @ 20A + 5V @ 20A supply in hand, the combined rail limit on the label,
> will prevent me from drawing 166 watts from them.
>
> Paul
thanks for the info and the killer link

john
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