From: philo on
On 06/18/2010 03:59 AM, JD wrote:
> Paul wrote:
>> JD wrote:
>>> Hi Experts,
>>>
>>> Yesterday was a bad one for me. I added a plug from a second computer
>>> to a robust Trip Lite Super 10 strip and a computer that was already
>>> attached to that strip, and running, suddenly stopped working. I
>>> tried it in another socket but still no start. The power supply for
>>> this apparently-dead computer is a PC Power & Cooling Silencer 600w
>>> and very robust.
>>>
>>> I have a tester unit that supposedly checks power supplies when I
>>> remove the cable connection from the mother board and then attach the
>>> tester to that connection. It showed a green light indicating that
>>> the supply is ok. I replaced that PS with another one that also
>>> tested ok but it could not start the computer either. There is no
>>> light at all on the mother board.
>>>
>>> I suspect there may be a short in the Tripp Lite.
>>>
>>> Suggestions please.
>>>
>>> TIA
>>
>> An outlet tester, is one way to quantify what is happening on an
>> outlet like on your Tripplite. These are good, when you suspect a
>> previous home owner tried their hand at outlet wiring. The label
>> has a list of test results to compare to.
>>
>> http://www.delstat.com/images/Outlet_Tester.jpg
>>
>> The Tripplite may have a "breaker button" on the strip, which
>> opens if there is an overload. You have to push the button or the like,
>> to reset it.
>>
>> And plugging the power supply right into the wall,
>> is another test case to try, as Philo suggested.
>> Take the Tripplite right out of the picture.
>>
>> Some motherboards, like Asus brand, have a green LED on the
>> motherboard that is connected to +5VSB. The power supply
>> consists of two sections, the +5VSB supply, and the "main
>> rails" supply. You can verify that +5VSB is flowing, by
>> seeing the green LED glowing. The computer cannot switch
>> on via the front button, unless the +5VSB is working. So no
>> matter how you do it, the availability of +5VSB from the
>> supply to the motherboard, is a precondition for success.
>> If the motherboard is some other brand, you may need a
>> multimeter to probe the +5VSB wire on the power supply
>> main cable. In some cases, it can even be the silly
>> button on the front of the computer case, that is broken.
>> Those switches can be pretty cheap. The switch function
>> is "momentary contact", and it is up to motherboard
>> logic to latch the pulse from the switch. If the switch
>> is completely open circuit, there'll be no pulse when
>> you press it.
>>
>> Paul
>
>
> Thank you Philo, VanguardLH and Paul.
>
> I am on the run at present and this is a short response.
>
> First, the strip is ok. I checked all the sockets with a lamp
> and all are continuous at least. I am using another (older) computer
> and other components in the strip at present and all are working fine.
> I did pull the power cable of the seemingly dead computer out of the
> strip and used it in a wall socket - still dead. The motherboard is an
> Intel D845GEBV2.
>
> Ironically the older backup computer, that I am now using, dates back to
> the 1990s and the motherboard is an Intel AL440LX. This is the most
> reliable computer I have ever had. I assembled it from parts that I
> bought. I find it remarkably fast and very quiet - a pleasure to use.
>
> More info soon, I hope.
>
> Thanks again all and have a great weekend :-)


now that the power strip has been seen no to be faulty

try resetting the bios
From: VanguardLH on
Removing the surge/power strip from the equation.

Have you checked if the CPU fan starts to spin when you press the power
button?

Do you hear the hard drive spin up to make a whine noise?

Switches go bad. Did you remove the 2-pin wire harness from the power
button to the 2-pin header on the motherboard and simply momentarily
short the pins to see if the computer powers up?
From: Tinkerer on

"JD" <JD(a)DeadEnd.net> wrote in message
news:880aphFsimU1(a)mid.individual.net...
> Hi Experts,
>
> Yesterday was a bad one for me. I added a plug from a second computer to a
> robust Trip Lite Super 10 strip and a computer that was already attached
> to that strip, and running, suddenly stopped working. I tried it in
> another socket but still no start. The power supply for this
> apparently-dead computer is a PC Power & Cooling Silencer 600w and very
> robust.
>
> I have a tester unit that supposedly checks power supplies when I remove
> the cable connection from the mother board and then attach the tester to
> that connection. It showed a green light indicating that the supply is ok.
> I replaced that PS with another one that also tested ok but it could not
> start the computer either. There is no light at all on the mother board.
>
> I suspect there may be a short in the Tripp Lite.
>
> Suggestions please.


A friend has an elderly Dell PC and the exact same thing happened. Totally
dead, not even the power supply fan was running. Fortunately he had the
original handbook and we looked in the troubleshooting section. It advised
removing, and then reinserting, the memory modules. We thought that
sounded a bit far fetched but we did it and ever since it has fired up
perfectly. Not saying it will work for you but easy enough to try.
--
Tinkerer


From: Strobe on
On Thu, 17 Jun 2010 21:29:11 -0700, JD <JD(a)DeadEnd.net> wrote:

>Hi Experts,
>
>Yesterday was a bad one for me. I added a plug from a second computer to
>a robust Trip Lite Super 10 strip and a computer that was already
>attached to that strip, and running, suddenly stopped working. I tried
>it in another socket but still no start. The power supply for this
>apparently-dead computer is a PC Power & Cooling Silencer 600w and very
>robust.
>
>I have a tester unit that supposedly checks power supplies when I remove
> the cable connection from the mother board and then attach the tester
>to that connection. It showed a green light indicating that the supply
>is ok. I replaced that PS with another one that also tested ok but it
>could not start the computer either. There is no light at all on the
>mother board.
>
>I suspect there may be a short in the Tripp Lite.
>
>Suggestions please.

SInce the PSU itself is good, it's probably not getting the startup command
from the MB.
The front panel button or MB may have failed (your tester, of course, provides
its own startup signal to the PSU).

It could be purely coincidental that it happened when plugging in the other PC.
I hate it when that happens - over the years, it's made me waste hours chasing
wild geese.


From: JD on
Strobe wrote:
> On Thu, 17 Jun 2010 21:29:11 -0700, JD <JD(a)DeadEnd.net> wrote:
>
>> Hi Experts,
>>
>> Yesterday was a bad one for me. I added a plug from a second computer to
>> a robust Trip Lite Super 10 strip and a computer that was already
>> attached to that strip, and running, suddenly stopped working. I tried
>> it in another socket but still no start. The power supply for this
>> apparently-dead computer is a PC Power & Cooling Silencer 600w and very
>> robust.
>>
>> I have a tester unit that supposedly checks power supplies when I remove
>> the cable connection from the mother board and then attach the tester
>> to that connection. It showed a green light indicating that the supply
>> is ok. I replaced that PS with another one that also tested ok but it
>> could not start the computer either. There is no light at all on the
>> mother board.
>>
>> I suspect there may be a short in the Tripp Lite.
>>
>> Suggestions please.
>
> SInce the PSU itself is good, it's probably not getting the startup command
> from the MB.
> The front panel button or MB may have failed (your tester, of course, provides
> its own startup signal to the PSU).
>
> It could be purely coincidental that it happened when plugging in the other PC.
> I hate it when that happens - over the years, it's made me waste hours chasing
> wild geese.


Thanks again guys for all your help.

I revisited that computer with the Silencer power supply (ps)and found
some odd things. First, my tester indicated that the main supply from
the ps to the motherboard was ok - green light. Then I noticed that the
fan was not running. I tried the ps in several electric outlets away
from the strip and there was no response. I also used my multimeter on
the 2x2 connection (4 contacts) that gets connected to the board near
the CPU. All contacts were dead. I opened up the ps to check if there
were blown fuses. It is very hard to see everything there but I saw no
trace of a fuse. This ps has a 5-year warranty and there is at least 3
years to go.
The Intel D845 board needs unusual plugs from the power supply - I have
several Enlights but none has the 2x2 connection.

Now, while this project is developing I have another - to revamp my
older AL440 box and get it into a circuit with a new (Samsung) NetBook,
a new D-Link router, and a new DSL modem that I bought recently to
replace my dead Siemens Speedstream 4100 - well, it's alive apart from
the DSL light. ;-) Will start this project with a new thread. My
toughest problem will be dealing with Windows 7 (stripped!). I have been
using Win2K for over 10 years and, from what I have seen so far, the 7
or even a stripped 7, will be quite a change.

Have a great weekend :-)