From: Rich Grise on
On Sat, 08 Jul 2006 18:18:56 +0000, Jeff L top-posted:

> Go to google, type in: 40W t5 ballast - you should get a ton of hits
> relating to usable ballasts. 40W means the electrical power, and T5 denotes,
> the tube's electrical characteristics. The rest of your bulb type does not
> matter, electrically, since that is the light output type, coatings, rated
> life, and physical size and shape of the tube, pins, etc.

Actually, T-5 refers to the physical form factor of the bulb. In this case,
it's tubular, 5/8" diameter. It doesn't say anything about phosphors or
anything, and it doesn't say anything about the electrical characteristics;
that's covered by "40W" and whether it's quick-start and stuff like that.


> The other option is to ask the company where you bought the tubes what
> ballast to use.
> Jeff
> "Sergey Kubushin" <ksi(a)> wrote in message
> news:e8f6ou$9vr$1(a)
>> Hi everybody!
>> Does anybody here know intimate fluorescent bulbs/ballasts details?
>> I'm trying to fix my pool ozon generator and it turned out to be much
>> tougher job than I expected... First of all, that pool ozonator business
> is
>> a big conspiracy :(( My generator is made by some canadian company called
>> Ultra Pure Water, model SPP70. It's less than 2 years old but already
> almost
>> impossible to fix...
>> The generator itself is very simple - a length of aluminum profile with 2
>> Ozone Producing 40W 30" T5 Germicidal bulbs and corresponding ballasts and
>> starters. The problem is my pool builders don't want to fix it suggesting
> I
>> have to find those bulbs and replace them myself. OK, it didn't look like
>> rocket science so I started digging.
>> First it turned out that it's almost impossible to find an Ozone Producing
>> Bulb, everybody cares about our health so 99.99% of all germicidal bulbs
>> available are proudly "No ozone", i.e. made with doped quartz blocking
> that
>> 185 nm ozone producing line. Those who do have such bulbs charge for each
>> one more than original weirdo with two bulbs were worth. And what's even
>> worse nobody tells you what's their bulbs are - they are "Replacement bulb
>> for Acme Aquatic model X.Y.Z-0121-x.y.z" and that's all.
>> After an entire day spent in the Net I learned that one company,
>> Aqua-something, claims that they are using Ozone Producing bulbs in their
>> sterilizers so I bought 2 of those of appropriate size and wattage and
> with
>> a little bit of metalworking installed them into that "Ozone Generator".
>> To my astonishment they didn't start! I didn't check all the parts before
>> installing them because I was 100% sure that that was bulbs that failed.
> As
>> a matter of fact those two already non-working bulbs did have burnt
>> filaments. But as it turned out two ballast also went south, they are both
>> open. This is the simplest type of fixture, 2 wire magnetic ballast, a
> bulb
>> with two filaments and a glow tube starter. Both ballasts look OK, no
> signs
>> of overheating or burn marks. Just open ...
>> So I decided to replace that ancient circuit with a more modern 2-bulb
>> ballast and that's where I've got confused and have to ask for a
> collective
>> wisdom...
>> Those ozone bulbs are T5 size but they are not those new T5 sophisticated
>> bulbs, they are listed as preheat type and their working current is 425mA.
>> Now I'm trying to find a suitable ballast and I'm totally lost - it looks
>> like there thousands of different ballasts out there and I don't know
> which
>> one to choose :((
>> First of all, I didn't find what is the working current for regular T12,
> T8,
>> T5 bulbs. What I was able to find were unconvincing. So does anyone know
>> what is the working current of regular T12, T8, and T5 bulbs? It looks
> like
>> those old T12 ones were working at 430mA so I should be able to use a 40W
>> T12 ballast for those germicidal bulbs. Am I right or I'm missing
> something
>> and bulb current is not enough and I should look for something else? Can I
>> use a rapid start ballast or should I stick with the old preheat variety?
>> Another problem is that its powered with 220V, not regular 120V. There are
>> some 277V ballasts at Home Depot, will they work on 220V? Do those T5
>> germicidal bulb filaments work at the same voltage as T8 and T12, i.e. can
> I
>> use e.g. T12 Rapid Start Ballast?
>> And one more question, how can one use a dimming electronic ballast? It
> has
>> two separate grey wires for dimming so it seems to be that 0-10V type
>> (Made by Prescott). I can't find what makes it 100% brightness, 0V or 10V?
>> If I want to use it as a regular non-dimming ballast, should I short those
>> grey wires, live them unconnected or feed them with 10V DC (as I
> understand
>> polarity doesn't matter 'coz both wires are grey)?
>> Any information is highly appreciated...
>> ---
>> ******************************************************************
>> * KSI(a)home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. *
>> * Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. *
>> ******************************************************************

From: joseph2k on
Mike Monett wrote:

> joseph2k <cooltechblue(a)> wrote:
>> Thank you Sergey, that is solid testimony to the disinfecting power of
>> ozone. Moreover the long lasting toxicity of chloramines and long term
>> exposure problems are starting to be documented.
> Hi Joseph,
> I have a question. I use pure distilled water in a silver electrolysis
> process.
> Sometimes there are problems that appear to be due to something in the
> water, and changing vendors often helps. The conductance of different
> vendor's products measured with a Hanna Pure Water Tester can range from
> 0.6uS to 1.2uS. So there is nothing obvious in the measurement that points
> to something in the water, but it sure doesn't work very well.
> Do you have more information on problems with chloramines, particularly
> to detect their presence, what effects they may have on an elctrolysis
> process, and how to remove them from the water?
> Thanks!
> Regards,
> Mike Monett

I have discovered that a lot of what is sold at the grocery store as
distilled water or de-ionized water is just filtered water. They both can
all kinds of junk in them including particulates.
If you actually have a sensitive industrial process going you need to look
into industrial grades of distilled and de-ionized water. The properties
of the two are a little different, so read up on the differences and select
what you need.
Finally, semiconductor process water or pharmaceutical process water is the
purest available and is only made on the spot. It is next to impossible to
keep water that pure for long because at that purity is truly is the
universal solvent. Average impurities < 10 parts per trillion (10^12) or
better, both industries are looking for less than 1 part in 10^21.

Gegen dummheit kampfen die Gotter Selbst, vergebens.  
First  |  Prev  | 
Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Prev: Tank Depth
Next: New Book of Rules