Prev: "ink supply failure" on HP5460
Next: HP LASERJET P2015D--cannot print using automatic duplex mode
From: Periproct on 3 Apr 2010 08:07


"Bob Eager" <rde42(a)spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:81ombvFfr2U6(a)mid.individual.net...
> On Sat, 03 Apr 2010 11:10:54 +0100, Periproct wrote:
>
>> "Bob Eager" <rde42(a)spamcop.net> wrote in message
>> news:81muk8Ffr2U2(a)mid.individual.net...
>>> On Fri, 02 Apr 2010 14:23:22 +0000, Charles Lindsey wrote:
>>>
>>>> I read somewhere that it was possible to make printed circuits using a
>>>> laser printer (one assumes, of course, that the paper track in the
>>>> particular printer was straight enough to take the extremely stiff
>>>> board).
>>>>
>>>> Would not the conductive layer of copper on top of the board prevent
>>>> the normal electrostatic transfer of the black stuff? I accept that,
>>>> if transferred, normal toner should be an effective etch resist.
>>>
>>> Charles
>>>
>>> I have a book that discusses this. The 'home' method is that you print
>>> the resist pattern on a piece of paper. Then you clamp it to the PCB
>>> blank, and use a hot iron and much pressure to remelt the toner and
>>> transfer it to the board. Results are apparently mixed, but it can be
>>> done. Not that you'll get much 'definition' with it... But clearly this
>>> method won't work with an inkjet.
>>>
>>> The second method is to print (inkjet or laser) onto transparency film.
>>> Then use a photoresist blank PCB and develop it. Rapid Electronics and
>>> CPC sell suitable film.
>>>
>>> The third method is to use "press-n-peel" film, which is a
>>> sophisticated version of the first method! Rapid and CPC sell this too.
>>>
>> And Maplin at £16 for 5 sheets of Press & Peel. I've just tried using
>> this and it wasn't a brilliant success. Three attempts and I couldn't
>> get all the tracks to transfer from the film to the PCB. (Could be
>> something I'm doing wrong so don't let me put you off trying). The small
>> amount of missing bits could easily be filled in with a fine point
>> sharpie. A functional but not pretty result.
>
> I have this pathological aversion to Maplin! Probably cheaper to go to
> Rapid and pay the small order charge! (no, I haven't checked...)
>
> I don't think it's that satisfactory either, but Charles was asking about
> the mechanism. In the long run, I'd probably use a package like 'pcb', or
> the limited free Eagle app, and get someone to make the board.
>
Back in the old days when they sold components they weren't so bad. Now
it's all toys.
I was trying to make a small PCB to start a friends son off on a school
project.
The PCB was still available but at £30 I'd rather bumble through with Press
& Peel.


From: Bob Eager on 3 Apr 2010 08:39
On Sat, 03 Apr 2010 13:07:15 +0100, Periproct wrote:

>> I have this pathological aversion to Maplin! Probably cheaper to go to
>> Rapid and pay the small order charge! (no, I haven't checked...)
>>
>> I don't think it's that satisfactory either, but Charles was asking
>> about the mechanism. In the long run, I'd probably use a package like
>> 'pcb', or the limited free Eagle app, and get someone to make the
>> board.
>>
> Back in the old days when they sold components they weren't so bad. Now
> it's all toys.
> I was trying to make a small PCB to start a friends son off on a school
> project.
> The PCB was still available but at £30 I'd rather bumble through with
> Press & Peel.

I agree. I was one of their very early customers in the mid 1960s!


--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

From: davy on 3 Apr 2010 05:32

Try printing on glossy magazine paper 'see details here'
(http://www.riccibitti.com/pcb/pcb.htm) or use toner transfer paper
called ''Press and Peel' see details here.'
(http://www.semis.demon.co.uk/PCB/PCB.html)

Some folks say use certain types of photo paper - this could be hit and
miss approach in damaging your printer 'see this.'
(http://byu-pro.co.cc/index.php/2008082150/Tutorials/making-pcb-with-laser-printer.html)

Better still you can modify and inkjet printer to print directly on the
copper clad board... 'see this article,'
(http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/cx4200-vs.htm) a Google
for PCB direct inkjet printing will bring tonnes of results.

A Google on the subject will bring many and varied results.

davy


From: davy on 4 Apr 2010 06:07

Periproct;1198296 Wrote:
> "Bob Eager" <rde42(a)spamcop.net> wrote in message
> news:81muk8Ffr2U2(a)mid.individual.net...
> > On Fri, 02 Apr 2010 14:23:22 +0000, Charles Lindsey wrote:
> >
> >> I read somewhere that it was possible to make printed circuits using
> a
> >> laser printer (one assumes, of course, that the paper track in the
> >> particular printer was straight enough to take the extremely stiff
> >> board).
> >>
> >> Would not the conductive layer of copper on top of the board prevent
> the
> >> normal electrostatic transfer of the black stuff? I accept that, if
> >> transferred, normal toner should be an effective etch resist.
> >
> > Charles
> >
> > I have a book that discusses this. The 'home' method is that you
> print
> > the resist pattern on a piece of paper. Then you clamp it to the PCB
> > blank, and use a hot iron and much pressure to remelt the toner and
> > transfer it to the board. Results are apparently mixed, but it can
> be
> > done. Not that you'll get much 'definition' with it... But clearly
> this
> > method won't work with an inkjet.
> >
> > The second method is to print (inkjet or laser) onto transparency
> film.
> > Then use a photoresist blank PCB and develop it. Rapid Electronics
> and
> > CPC sell suitable film.
> >
> > The third method is to use "press-n-peel" film, which is a
> sophisticated
> > version of the first method! Rapid and CPC sell this too.
> >
> > > > And Maplin at £16 for 5 sheets of Press & Peel.> >
> I've just tried using this and it wasn't a brilliant success. Three
> attempts
> and I couldn't get all the tracks to transfer from the film to the
> PCB.
> (Could be something I'm doing wrong so don't let me put you off
> trying). The small amount of missing bits could easily be filled in
> with a
> fine point sharpie. A functional but not pretty result.

Try 'Ronlin Electronics' (http://www.ronlin.co.uk/pressnpeel.html)
�17-50 for 10 sheets. But magazines you get with the Sunday papers can
be just as good but not that very thin stuff..... but slightly harder to
remove, but once you have the knack it's like shelling peas.

Simply soak in soapy hot water for about twenty minutes and rub with
the thumb under running water..... the secret is do not attempt to pull
but rub, but remember you what the highest print setting as to get as
much toner down as possible.

davy


From: davy on 4 Apr 2010 06:21

The board must be scrupulously clean, use brillo pads under running
water, allow to dry then use a non fluffy cloth moisten with Isopropanol
(or squirt the stuff on the board), it's amazing the muck that comes
off.

Use a non-steam iron (some uses a certain model of a lamination machine
that is used for laminating photos.... but all are not suitable),
between the iron use a piece of greaseproof paper, kitchen towel or
plain ol' A4 typing paper.

Leave the iron on for about thirty seconds, iron the corners and edges
then the whole lot until all the print you can see goes black... this
takes about three minutes - some say let the weight of the iron do the
work while others say press hard.

The board can then be cooled under running water before gently removing
the film... any blotches can easily be filled in with a ink resist pen,
or a Steadler lumicolor marker pen.

It is vital the the film is secured first so that it does not move the
whole lot can be taped to a newspaper to avoid movement.

davy


First  |  Prev  |  Next  |  Last
Pages: 1 2 3
Prev: "ink supply failure" on HP5460
Next: HP LASERJET P2015D--cannot print using automatic duplex mode