From: Arthur Entlich on
This really depends upon the ink formulation and somewhat the paper too.

Some pigment inks will do just fine with non-coated papers because they
are designed to allow the pigment particles to sit on the top surface of
the paper and just have an adhesive material like a plastic resin in the
base of the ink to "glue" the particles to the paper surface.

Dye inks almost all need specially coated papers to get good results
because the colorant in dyes is dissolved into the base, and the
molecules are small enough that the water carries the colorant into the
paper fibres. However those same dyes can produce very bright colors on
properly coated papers.

Art

If you are interested in issues surrounding e-waste,
I invite you to enter the discussion at my blog:

http://e-trashtalk.spaces.live.com/

Bob AZ wrote:
> �I stopped by the local art supply store today, and found a
>> sketchbook labelled 8.5"x11" with 80 lb. paper, so I bought one, and I
>> think it's good enough for this project. �.
>>
>> Adam
>
> Adam
>
> Paper for inkjet papers needs to be coated so that the ink just
> penetrates the paper. Otherwsie the ink sory of runs or smears. And
> the real glossy paper surface will not accept any ink at all. What you
> need is a coated paper that is in between. I would imagine the
> sketchbook paper will fail because it is usually not coated.
>
> Bob AZ
>
From: Arthur Entlich on
Your printer is using pigment inks, as I recall the 3e inks being. And
yes it can make quite a difference.

Also, some papers even for non-inkjet sue may be sized with mordants or
starches which hold the ink from bleeding.

Art

If you are interested in issues surrounding e-waste,
I invite you to enter the discussion at my blog:

http://e-trashtalk.spaces.live.com/

Adam wrote:
> Bob AZ wrote:
>>> I stopped by the local art supply store today, and found a
>>> sketchbook labelled 8.5"x11" with 80 lb. paper, so I bought one, and I
>>> think it's good enough for this project.
>>
>> Paper for inkjet papers needs to be coated so that the ink just
>> penetrates the paper. Otherwise the ink sort of runs or smears. And
>> the real glossy paper surface will not accept any ink at all. What you
>> need is a coated paper that is in between. I would imagine the
>> sketchbook paper will fail because it is usually not coated.
>
> Thanks for your reply, Bob! The sketchbook I bought today ("Aquabee
> Sketch Paper") specifically mentioned inkjet printers. The printed
> image on its rough (front) side looks as sharp as the best of the other
> papers I tried, and, once dry, won't smear unless it gets wet. On its
> smooth side the printing is okay but not as black. Could it have
> something to do with pigments vs. dyes? (I'm not sure which a Canon 3e
> black cartridge is.)
>
> BTW the other papers I tried before were Staples store brand
> "multipurpose" and "printing" papers, Canon glossy photo paper, and
> paper cut to size from two other, older sketchbooks, and the image was
> pretty sharp on all of those. Maybe I'm just lucky? ;-)
>
> Adam
From: Adam on
Arthur Entlich wrote:
> Your printer is using pigment inks, as I recall the 3e inks being. And
> yes it can make quite a difference.

A quick web search showed that Canon's 3e cartridges are pigments, but
some third-party ones are dyes. I've printed (with Canon ink) on a
variety of papers, and the only disappointment was really cheap
off-brand dollar-store photo paper.

> Also, some papers even for non-inkjet use may be sized with mordants or
> starches which hold the ink from bleeding.

I don't know enough about papermaking (which is an art of its own) to be
able to tell. I hadn't realized there was so much to inks and papers.
Thanks again for your help with this!

Adam
First  |  Prev  | 
Pages: 1 2 3 4
Prev: Brother HL-5340D
Next: Canon iP4000 Print Head Problem