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From: Jim Thompson on 29 Jul 2010 10:48 On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 06:29:41 -0700, Joerg <invalid(a)invalid.invalid> wrote: >John Larkin wrote: >> On Wed, 28 Jul 2010 17:37:27 -0700, Joerg <invalid(a)invalid.invalid> >> wrote: >> >>> krw(a)att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote: > >[...] > >>>> Ah, *rentals*. I thought it was perhaps a Kalifornica thing. >>> >>> No, California is actually pretty free WRT cars. Ok, Diesels and smog >>> and all that, that's tough. But other than that you can get just about >>> anything registered. A friend built himself a Cobra with an Edelbrock >>> racing engine in there. It sounds like 10 Harleys together and when he >>> steps on it all the leaves on the ground are gone. He took me on a brief >>> tour and that thing really rocks. Don't ask about the gas mileage ... >> >> I was shocked when I moved to CA. The only vehicle inspection is smog, >> and new cars get a few years off for free. In Louisiana, we had a >> "brake inspection" every six months! In a place so flat you barely >> need brakes. >> > >Unions? Or bureaucrats in need of plum jobs? In WV, when I was a kid, it was called a safety inspection. You went to a mechanic shop _of_your_choice_ and they checked your brakes and head and tail lights and gave you a sticker, for like $1. ...Jim Thompson -- | James E.Thompson, CTO | mens | | Analog Innovations, Inc. | et | | Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus | | Phoenix, Arizona 85048 Skype: Contacts Only | | | Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat | | E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 | Spice is like a sports car... Performance only as good as the person behind the wheel.
From: ehsjr on 29 Jul 2010 12:44 Tom Gootee wrote: > On Jul 26, 2:29 pm, Joerg <inva...(a)invalid.invalid> wrote: > >>Joel Koltner wrote: >> >>>"John Larkin" <jjlar...(a)highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in >>>messagenews:lthr4610pin79ldpnflqu3kd23p3g7lqgp(a)4ax.com... >>> >>>>A sheet of kiss-cut peel-off vinyl letters from Flax, the nearby art >>>>supply store. They'll eventually rub off, so I'll turn it over to >>>>testing and let them pretty it up. >> >>>If you spray some clear acrylic over it it'll last for years... that's >>>what we did back at university, and there was some really nicely done >>>equipment there that was probably well over a decade old, holding up >>>well. (...although there were plenty of hacked-up boxes with Sharpie >>>marker lettering on them too...) >> >>That's what I did as a kid, for my home-made ham radio gear. However, I >>found it would only hold up to daily abuse if the aluminim was brushed a >>bit and usually I also heated it before spraying, to the point where the >>lettering just barely did not begin to shrivel. On non-brushed anodized >>aluminum it all flaked off in due course. The lettering I used was from >>a company called "Letra-Set", not sure if available in the US. It was >>the professional stuff, otherwise used for shopping displays or >>advertising material. >> >>-- >>Regards, Joerg >> >>http://www.analogconsultants.com/ >> >>"gmail" domain blocked because of excessive spam. >>Use another domain or send PM. > > > For one-offs, at least, on aluminum (or most any metal), I just use > toner transfer, almost the same way I put PCB patterns onto copper > blanks. > > If you use the right type of inkjet paper (or a glossy magazine page) > in a laser printer, you can use a clothes iron to transfer the toner > to metal in just a few minutes. > > One great thing about it is that you can use any kind of artwork that > you can make and print with your computer and laser printer! So > besides just letters and numbers (and of any size, font, etc that's > available), you can easily have things like circular knob scales (tic > marks and numbers, or whatever), logos, basically anything you can > dream up, draw, and print. > > I have only tried it with the older black-only laser printers, like > the old HP LaserJet 4, III, and II. And you do have to very-slightly > roughen the surface, and get it very clean. > > The way I did it to make PCBs has the details, at http://www.fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm > . > > You might have to practice, once or twice, before getting it perfect, > assuming you have the right paper. Sorry I don't know what that paper > make/model is, any more, because they keep changing the stuff, and I > haven't done it for a while. > > Anyway, one good thing about it is that if you mess up, you can just > clean the toner off with lacquer thinner and start over. When you've > got it right, clear-coat it with something and it should last until > the coating comes off. > > For PCBs, it's really quick and easy, enabling me to go from computer > screen to finished board in under an hour; great for prototyping. The > laser printer toner is mostly plastic. And PCB etchant-type acids > can't eat through plastic. So whatever's not under the toner goes > away and you're left with the copper pattern you want. The link I > gave also has a recipe for home-made etchant that works within five or > ten minutes and is made from hardware-store muriatic acid and > drugstore hydrogen peroxide. I hated waiting (and paying) for mail- > order stuff. So the way I did it I could get everything locally, > almost anywhere, except for the PCB blanks and the tiny solid-carbide > drill bits, which I just bought en masse. Toner transfer also worked > extremely well for putting "silkscreen" artwork onto the fibreglass > side. Thanks for your write up on making PCB's. It's clearly written, and your method works great! And a second thank you for pointing out that you can use the procedure for labeling panels. Neat. :-) Ed
From: Joerg on 29 Jul 2010 14:36 Tom Gootee wrote: > On Jul 26, 2:29 pm, Joerg <inva...(a)invalid.invalid> wrote: >> Joel Koltner wrote: >>> "John Larkin" <jjlar...(a)highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote in >>> messagenews:lthr4610pin79ldpnflqu3kd23p3g7lqgp(a)4ax.com... >>>> A sheet of kiss-cut peel-off vinyl letters from Flax, the nearby art >>>> supply store. They'll eventually rub off, so I'll turn it over to >>>> testing and let them pretty it up. >>> If you spray some clear acrylic over it it'll last for years... that's >>> what we did back at university, and there was some really nicely done >>> equipment there that was probably well over a decade old, holding up >>> well. (...although there were plenty of hacked-up boxes with Sharpie >>> marker lettering on them too...) >> That's what I did as a kid, for my home-made ham radio gear. However, I >> found it would only hold up to daily abuse if the aluminim was brushed a >> bit and usually I also heated it before spraying, to the point where the >> lettering just barely did not begin to shrivel. On non-brushed anodized >> aluminum it all flaked off in due course. The lettering I used was from >> a company called "Letra-Set", not sure if available in the US. It was >> the professional stuff, otherwise used for shopping displays or >> advertising material. >> >> -- >> Regards, Joerg >> >> http://www.analogconsultants.com/ >> >> "gmail" domain blocked because of excessive spam. >> Use another domain or send PM. > > For one-offs, at least, on aluminum (or most any metal), I just use > toner transfer, almost the same way I put PCB patterns onto copper > blanks. > > If you use the right type of inkjet paper (or a glossy magazine page) > in a laser printer, you can use a clothes iron to transfer the toner > to metal in just a few minutes. > > One great thing about it is that you can use any kind of artwork that > you can make and print with your computer and laser printer! So > besides just letters and numbers (and of any size, font, etc that's > available), you can easily have things like circular knob scales (tic > marks and numbers, or whatever), logos, basically anything you can > dream up, draw, and print. > > I have only tried it with the older black-only laser printers, like > the old HP LaserJet 4, III, and II. And you do have to very-slightly > roughen the surface, and get it very clean. > > The way I did it to make PCBs has the details, at http://www.fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm > . > > You might have to practice, once or twice, before getting it perfect, > assuming you have the right paper. Sorry I don't know what that paper > make/model is, any more, because they keep changing the stuff, and I > haven't done it for a while. > > Anyway, one good thing about it is that if you mess up, you can just > clean the toner off with lacquer thinner and start over. When you've > got it right, clear-coat it with something and it should last until > the coating comes off. > > For PCBs, it's really quick and easy, enabling me to go from computer > screen to finished board in under an hour; great for prototyping. The > laser printer toner is mostly plastic. And PCB etchant-type acids > can't eat through plastic. So whatever's not under the toner goes > away and you're left with the copper pattern you want. The link I > gave also has a recipe for home-made etchant that works within five or > ten minutes and is made from hardware-store muriatic acid and > drugstore hydrogen peroxide. I hated waiting (and paying) for mail- > order stuff. So the way I did it I could get everything locally, > almost anywhere, except for the PCB blanks and the tiny solid-carbide > drill bits, which I just bought en masse. Toner transfer also worked > extremely well for putting "silkscreen" artwork onto the fibreglass > side. Thanks, Tom, excellent! Bookmarked it immediately. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ "gmail" domain blocked because of excessive spam. Use another domain or send PM.
From: krw on 29 Jul 2010 18:40 On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 07:48:03 -0700, Jim Thompson <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon(a)On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote: >On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 06:29:41 -0700, Joerg <invalid(a)invalid.invalid> >wrote: > >>John Larkin wrote: >>> On Wed, 28 Jul 2010 17:37:27 -0700, Joerg <invalid(a)invalid.invalid> >>> wrote: >>> >>>> krw(a)att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote: >> >>[...] >> >>>>> Ah, *rentals*. I thought it was perhaps a Kalifornica thing. >>>> >>>> No, California is actually pretty free WRT cars. Ok, Diesels and smog >>>> and all that, that's tough. But other than that you can get just about >>>> anything registered. A friend built himself a Cobra with an Edelbrock >>>> racing engine in there. It sounds like 10 Harleys together and when he >>>> steps on it all the leaves on the ground are gone. He took me on a brief >>>> tour and that thing really rocks. Don't ask about the gas mileage ... >>> >>> I was shocked when I moved to CA. The only vehicle inspection is smog, >>> and new cars get a few years off for free. In Louisiana, we had a >>> "brake inspection" every six months! In a place so flat you barely >>> need brakes. >>> >> >>Unions? Or bureaucrats in need of plum jobs? > >In WV, when I was a kid, it was called a safety inspection. You went >to a mechanic shop _of_your_choice_ and they checked your brakes and >head and tail lights and gave you a sticker, for like $1. They did that in NY, too. Seems every year everyone failed headlight alignment. "That'll be $20, please." There is no demonstrable benefit to "safety inspections", except to the mechanic's bottom line.
From: Michael A. Terrell on 1 Aug 2010 04:24
John Larkin wrote: > > I was shocked when I moved to CA. The only vehicle inspection is smog, > and new cars get a few years off for free. In Louisiana, we had a > "brake inspection" every six months! In a place so flat you barely > need brakes. Till the brake pedal goes to the floor, and the emergency brake does nothing. I've had it happen on three different brands over the last 40 years. Blown brake line, blown master cylinder, and a Toyota Corona that would eject the rear brake pads with as little as 1/8" wear when you had to made a hard stop in reverse. No rear pads meant to emergency break. :( Others had the steel cable break, and one had the linkage come apart when I pulled the handle. -- Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to have a DD214, and a honorable discharge. |